Bill,
the exact distance between engagement and disengagement, I'm unsure of, but
I can tell you, it's probably measured in hundredths. One car I had
wouldn't disengage, and it turned out the problem was the clutch pedal arm
bottoming out on the rubber floor mat! I mean really, it doesn't take much.
Go back through and make sure:
1.There is ZERO play between the clutch pedal/clevis pin/master pushrod.
2.That the rubber flex line from the frame to the slave cylinder isn't
ballooning.
3That the slave pushrod/clevis pin/ release arm has ZERO play.
4.That the clutch disc isn't in backwards.
5.Has the pressure plate been resurfaced? An equal amount of material
should be taken off where the step down is, and an equal amount should be
removed from the pressure plate, even if brand new.
There is no spring return at the throw out bearing. It actually will
lightly ride on the pressure plate when the clutch is disengaged. Try a
conversion to a roller takeout bearing.
David Riker
63 Falcon
70 Torino
74 Midget
http://home.pacbell.net/davriker/
----- Original Message -----
From "Bill Mantz" <bmantz at roanoke.infi.net>
To: "Frank Clarici" <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Cc: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2003 2:57 PM
Subject: RE: Still Clutch problems
> Still getting no where on this problem on the 71 Midget. I set the
> Engine/tranny outside the car. Checked the direction of the clutch fork,
pin
> length - all okay. The throwout bearing is 1/32 from the pressure plate
face
> before depressing the clutch, so I can't extend the pin any or the t/o
> bearing would be against the pressure plate at all times, and still
wouldn't
> engage the clutch far enough. It appears that the slave pin isn't
retracting
> as far as it should (a different problem, I guess). New clutch slave, new
> clutch master cylinder, new hose, even trid a new t/o bearing. No results.
I
> am completely out of ideas to try next.
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