Thanks everyone again for all your suggestions.
I was able to do left rear hub last night, and after some trial and error,
here's what worked for me.
I was going to buy a 1-7/8" socket, but The only one I could find last night
was
$19 + 3/4 socket slide bar@ $27. I didn't think it was a good investment to
spend $50 just so I could remove the rear axle nut, so instead, I knocked out
one of the wheel studs with a couple whacks with a brass hammer, so I could
then
fit a large crescent wrench, on the axle nut.
After removing the LH thread nut, I then bolted the axle shaft back on with the
shaft facing out, and proceeded to tighten down the lug nuts. Since the Flange
on the half-shaft is bulged, this acted the same as a wheel puller, and as you
tighten the lug nuts, it proceeded to pull left hub from the axle. This worked
really well, and didn't damage the threaded end of the rear axle.
I then tapped out the hub bearing, using a large socket, and a brass hammer.
After that I was able to pry out the old seal using first a regular flat screw
drive, and then a BF screw driver.
The new seal was then carefully tapped back into place with a brass hammer, and
once flush with the step in the hub, I used both a BF-screw driver and brass
hammer to finally tap in the last 1/8 inch home.
The new bearing was then gently tapped into place using a brass hammer, using
the old bearing as a drift.
One thing I notice, is that the new bearing didn't look quite as heavy duty as
the original (but looks can be deceptive), and although the original seemed to
be in good shape, I replaced it anyway.
I hope to finish this tonight/saturday for both hub, but I still need to pick
up
a new set of paper flange gaskets, since I wasn't able to do that yesterday.
BTW - the original paper/O-ring flange gaskets that I installed over a year
ago,
hadn't leaked at all, and they were originally installed 'dry' without any
sealing compound.
Regards- Bryan Vandiver
San Jose, CA
er@eng.sun.com>, "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Rear hub seals
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>
>> Hi Bryan,
>>
>> The bearing replacement process isn't too terribly bad. I've had to do a
>> few. I believe you are correct with the size being 1 7/8. However, I
>used
>> my dad's 3/4 inch socket set to remove it, and that's back in Texas. The
>> new seal bearing can be put back in by hand. Just go slow and use lots o'
>> grease. If you end up picking up a 3/4 inch socket set, one of the
>smaller
>> sockets along with a mallet will help with the installation of the
>bearing.
>> Just remember to bend back the lock tab washer! It took me a while to
>> figure out why the nut wasn't coming off. As for the torque setting, I'm
>> not sure, but if you get it real tight, the tab lock should do it's job.
>> Good luck!
>>
>> Greg
>
>I'm in the process of welding a cut-off socket onto the inner face of a
>Morris Minor halfshaft so that I can put the splined end into the diff and
>the other end over the wheel studs on the spridget hub to ensure the nut
>goes on smoothly without the worry of cross-threading or slipping off of the
>nut. The Minor shafts are longer and so the plan should work. The socket
>is marked 1-1/8 Whitworth and 1-1/4 BSF. With an old socket welded onto the
>back face of the hub, it should work OK. I understand that a similar tool
>was available as a workshop option from the factory.
>
>
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