Hi list,
I used to run a 970S in an Autocrosser Mini-Marcos. The DPO had fitted
a run of tube from the heater take-off, to a heater element, sitting on the
front apron. Most in-elegant! So the DCO removed this appendage. I
then went to a an "el cheepo", (that's a relative term) rolling road for
engine
set up purposes. That shop weakened off the 45DCOE a lot, as the DPO
had it running real rich. To be fair, it had been difficult to start. After
the
work, it seemed to start right handy, and revs were up, and a night-time
test run on a deserted public road, with no lights (Rem Autocross car)
scarrred the s**** out of me :-)).
Point of story: does anybody want to acquire < 3 only > 970S pistons/
polished con-rods etc, etc, Yup, I don't have a good number 4 anymore.
It seized during a race, and destroyed itself.
To this ex-autocrosser, it does seems a good idea to retain the cooling
effect of the heater take-off, when you run a stressed engine.
My .02 Euros worth.
Ron in Ireland
'59 Sprite "Oggibip"
At 06:48 03/06/99 EDT, Paul A Asgeirsson wrote:
>I've always thought that the story of hot pockets of coolant around #4
>cyl. with the heater valve shut off in the off position was an urban
>myth. How about someone drilling about a dozen holes in their block and
>put on a twelve point recorder so it can be defined as myth or not!
>
>Look at the thousands of cars that get run in the summer with the valve
>to off. Are they all failing because of that? I don't think so!
>
>Paul
>PAsgeirsson@juno.com
>
>On Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:24:23 -0500 Gregory_Schulz@mil-elect-tool.com
>writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>Being a bug-eye (vintage racer) owner for only a few short months, the
>>topic of
>>the
>>heater valve on the rear of the engine still mystifies me.
>>
>>I currently have a special adapter fitted to the head at that position
>>with the
>>temp
>>sender for my VDO gauge installed there. I've heard stories about #4
>>getting
>>hot,
>>and other stories about steam pockets forming if that valve is closed
>>or blanked
>>off. I decided to put my temp sender there to see if I could pick up
>>any
>>indication.
>>
>>With a 160 thermostat installed, and racing in mid-70 degree weather
>>on 5/22, my
>>temp gauge read 180-200 on the false grid (no fan!) but once I was out
>>on the
>>track
>>at speed it went right down to 165-170 and stayed there. This
>>indicated to me
>>that
>>the rear section of my engine (water jacket around the #4 vacinity)
>>was rather
>>cool -
>>maybe too cool according to some paddock observers.
>>
>>I had previously checked the calibration of my gauge prior to
>>installation to
>>make
>>sure it was reading correctly. So I'm either very lucky not to have a
>>temperature
>>problem in that area with my current set-up, or the problem is there
>>but I
>>cannot
>>pick it up in that uppermost rear position for some reason.
>>
>>Any thoughts appreciated, and TIA...
>>
>>Greg Schulz
>>'58 Bug-eye (Vintage racer & street "legal")
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>shawn tobin <suhs2@hotmail.com> on 06/03/99 11:30:43 AM
>>
>>Please respond to shawn tobin <suhs2@hotmail.com>
>>
>>To: mdietsche@yahoo.com, john.gronberg@us.landisstaefa.com
>>cc: spridgets@autox.team.net (bcc: Gregory Schulz/MED/IT/ATLAS
>>COPCO)
>>
>>Subject: Re: Temperature Question 2
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Perhaps this is a good time to remind us that the heater valve on the
>>rear
>>of the head MUST be kept open and flowing either through the heater or
>>directly into the heater return hose. Elsewise #4 will likely run too
>>hot.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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