Frank,
Out of ignorance, I would like to know how you accomplish this at the
master cylinder. I have the same problem as Dave. I am going to
rebuild my slave cyl as soon as the parts arrive. I replaced the
master already.
Don
'72 Midget
Subject: Re: Clutch is NOT Bleeding
Author: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com> at fdinet
Date: 9/16/98 7:23 AM
Dave Hiley wrote:
>
> Well here I go again/still: :))
>
> I used my new visibleed on the brakes and all is well. Next came the
> clutch. (which, of course, is why I took the engine out last September) I
> have a new slave cylinder but did not replace the clutch master.
>
> No amount of creative bleeding both using the visibleed or the traditional
> two person method will get me any pedal pressure. If I hold my thumb
> against the piston in the slave and my son works the clutch pedal, the only
> time there is pressure (with the bleed screw closed) is during the bottom
> inch of travel in the clutch pedal. there is no evidence or visible air
> bubbles coming out of the bleed screw. I even took the slave off the bell
> housing and tried gravity bleeding.
>
> It was suggested that I test the master cylinder by inserting a 3/8 bolt
> instead of the line connector and if the clutch pedal is very firm the
> master cylinder is OK. I did and it was. :((
>
> Help!! Please!
> Thanks
> dave
> '72 MKIII
Dave
9 times out of 10 the clutch needs to be "power bled" using either an
Easy bleeder or just forcing compressed air into the master to push the
fluid up and over the hump in the clutch line.
Keep the air pressure to around 15 PSI, anthing more will atomize the
brake fluid and cause more air in the system.
--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
Lots of LBCs
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
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