I have rebuilt the dual line master cylinder ,the clutch slave and rear
wheel cylinders with no problems. All are easy tasks with no more than
replacing small rubber seals .Carl e.
Peter Samaroo wrote:
> Rebuilding will work depending on the condition of the bores if there is
> any pitting or scoring that will not come out with a light honing you
> should consider new parts. If you hone out too much metal in order to
> remove the pitting it will probably not hold up. When honing use a
> little brake fluid as a lubricant (wear eye protection and do not do it
> near any painted surfaces), afterwards rinse everything off with
> denatured or rubbing alcohol and wipe down the bores with a white
> lintfree cloth until all the honing grit is removed, then blow dry with
> compressed air. Lube all rubber cups and bores with clean brake fluid or
> Girling rubber grease or NAPA protect-a-cup (?) before reassembling. You
> can for good measure spray out all the lines with brake cleaner and
> compressed air to get them clean as well.
> Regards,
> Peter.
>
> >From: Bob Spruck <bspruck@mindspring.com>
> >I'd like some input from you more experienced sprideteers about the
> >advisability and success of rebuilding the brake and clutch master
> >cylinder, slave cylinder, and rear wheel cylinders. My '72 Midget has
> been
> >sitting in the garage for the past three years awaiting the engine
> >compartment repainting, which I've finally gotten around to. (All my
> free
> >car time and money the past few years has gone into my '67 Midget
> vintage
> >race car.) Now I want to put the street/show car back together and I
> want
> >to have a reliable braking system. Replacing everything with new stuff
> at
> >today's prices is extremely expensive. I have no experience with
> rebuilding
> >the hydraulics, but it doesn't seem to be too difficult. Any tips,
> >experiences, and warnings would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> >Bob Spruck
> >Sharpsburg, GA
> >
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