Rebuilding will work depending on the condition of the bores if there is
any pitting or scoring that will not come out with a light honing you
should consider new parts. If you hone out too much metal in order to
remove the pitting it will probably not hold up. When honing use a
little brake fluid as a lubricant (wear eye protection and do not do it
near any painted surfaces), afterwards rinse everything off with
denatured or rubbing alcohol and wipe down the bores with a white
lintfree cloth until all the honing grit is removed, then blow dry with
compressed air. Lube all rubber cups and bores with clean brake fluid or
Girling rubber grease or NAPA protect-a-cup (?) before reassembling. You
can for good measure spray out all the lines with brake cleaner and
compressed air to get them clean as well.
Regards,
Peter.
>From: Bob Spruck <bspruck@mindspring.com>
>I'd like some input from you more experienced sprideteers about the
>advisability and success of rebuilding the brake and clutch master
>cylinder, slave cylinder, and rear wheel cylinders. My '72 Midget has
been
>sitting in the garage for the past three years awaiting the engine
>compartment repainting, which I've finally gotten around to. (All my
free
>car time and money the past few years has gone into my '67 Midget
vintage
>race car.) Now I want to put the street/show car back together and I
want
>to have a reliable braking system. Replacing everything with new stuff
at
>today's prices is extremely expensive. I have no experience with
rebuilding
>the hydraulics, but it doesn't seem to be too difficult. Any tips,
>experiences, and warnings would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Bob Spruck
>Sharpsburg, GA
>
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