hey dave,
i'm sending this out to the list incase i mention something incorrect
and those more knowledgable can steer us right(those in spridgetland,
i've just set myself up for a clean shot, just give me time to duck)
with the old floor pans removed, fit the new ones in using vise grips or
clamps at the front and rear lips to hold them inplace, inspect the
areas where the pans mate to the body as these areas will need to be
clean and shiny metal for welding. look for any obstructions that might
require triming the new panels for fit, i.e. on mine the is a
reinforcing plate at the end of the trans tunnel i just slotted the new
panel and trimed to fit between the lips. unless you have access to an
actual spot welder, using a mig welder may be best way to go( note-there
is a book by a lindsay porter published by haynes on sprite and midget
restoration, imho a good investment) in that book they recomend drilling
1/8 inch holes in one panel where spot welds would be and welding
through that hole to create a weld point. practice this method on scrap,
it was suggested to me by another listee to use 3/16 inch holes as i was
having trouble penetrating (i was filling up the hole without attaching
the two pieces. drill these holes along the spot weld flanges in the
cockpit on the trans tunnel, cross member, rear box section, front toe
board, rear panel of the front wheel well, front panel of rear wheel
well, frame rail in the engine comp (this will allow more welding from
above), and on the lip of the new panel where it mates up to the inner
sill, fit the panel to the body exactly where it is to be welded, using
the drilled holes, mark and drill through the inner sill at intervals so
you can use sheet metal screws to chinch up the panel tight to the
innersill(listees- what spacing should be used every third, fifth, etc)
with the new panel tight up against the innersill you can then use #5
screws and nuts at intervals simular to the sheet screws to clamp the
panel to the before mentioned flanges in the cockpit. with the panel
securely inplace start welding skipping around to different places to
avoid excessive heat warpage. remove screws and nuts and sheet metal
screws and finish pluging those holes. where the new panel overlaps the
trans tunnel just tack or seam weld to the exsisting panel that was left
in place.
i think that does it looks so simple on paper. now all i have to do is
get off my a** and do it.
to the list i'm waiting for the first shot
good luck dave and best of regard to you and all those on the list
tim
> ----------
> From: d0m6803@acs.tamu.edu[SMTP:d0m6803@acs.tamu.edu]
> Sent: Friday, June 26, 1998 2:03 AM
> To: BOLIN, TIMOTHY
> Subject: RE: Moss Bugeye Panels
>
> Tim,
>
> Sounds like we are in the same boat. Let me in on youe welding
> methods and stratagies! I just picked up Wal-Marts $89 mini-Arc welder
> to
> toy with - It's probably going back, but I wanted to see what the
> little guy
> could do. I would like my own small Mig unit, but I have nor seen one
> yet I
> can afford. Any idea what Sears has? Is there a way to reproduce spot
> welds?
> Good luck. Stay in touch and share some ideas/mistakes!
> Dave Meduna, 59 Bugeye
>
>
>
>
>
> At 02:46 PM 6/25/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >dave,
> >
> >i'm also replacing the floor panels in my 65 midget. i received my
> >panels from spec. int. and surprisingly pleased with the way they
> >snuggly fit when just placing in place. what i have done to the old
> pans
> >is cut them out along the spot weld flange of the transmission tunnel
> >and then using a die grinder with a metal grinding bit(someone on the
> >list mention that there is a bit specifically for cutting out spot
> >welds), ground out the spot welds(trying not to go through both
> pieces
> >of metal) along the innersill and on the underside those spot welds
> >securing the panel to the rear box section, forward box section, and
> >crossmember. then using a chisel to carefully separate the old panel
> >from the body sections. i am leaving the the tunnel section in place
> and
> >plan on over lapping (or underlapping) it with the new panel. i'm at
> >this stage now and hope to build up enough courage to start welding
> in
> >the the new panels. (just a little apprehensive with my welding
> >capability-still practicing on scrape metal)
> >
> >this method and the advice i've received from my friends on the list
> has
> >worked well for me so far and i hope it helps you.
> >
> >best of luck
> >
> >tim
> >
> >> ----------
> >> From: d0m6803@acs.tamu.edu[SMTP:d0m6803@acs.tamu.edu]
> >> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 1998 3:05 AM
> >> To: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> >> Subject: Moss Bugeye Panels
> >>
> >> Dear group,
> >>
> >> I have recieved Moss's panels for Bugeye floors - the two
> >> pieces. I
> >> have noticed that I will need to modify the original look somewhat
> due
> >> to
> >> the underside of the tranny tunnel. Has anyone out there done this?
> DO
> >> you
> >> reuse the center floor piece or leave it off compleatly? Also
> >> wondering
> >> about the spring-box areas - how do you cut these out or get the
> >> floors in
> >> correctly? Any help is greatly appreciated.
> >> Dave Meduna, Bugeye
> >> #12654
> >> David Meduna
> >> College of Veterinary Medicine
> >> Department of Biomedical Science
> >> Texas A&M University
> >>
> >
> David Meduna
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Department of Biomedical Science
> Texas A&M University
>
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