The cheapest conversion is one that bolts the tele shock on the rear
side of the a-arm. One of the AHSDC members may still have the
fabricated bits for sale at A$50. You can use any teles, the cheapest
option being something like the Monroe shocks. Pretty inexpensive.
I'll check to see if there are more "kits" available. If not, then the plans
would be available and you could get them manufactured by any
machine shop.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Penney <rpenney@cyberspace.net.au>
To: Mike Gigante <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; spridgets@autox.team.net
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 12, 1998 9:47 PM
Subject: RE: anti-roll bar
>THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!
>
>> Don't be tempted to lower the ride height - while it does
>> improve front-end cornering power, you flinch over every large bump or
>> pothole.
>
>This explains my car's current bouncing. The DPO put lower springs on the
>front, at least an inch!
>Now can you recommend and good telescopic damper conversion kit that is
>available in Melbourne? ( I am going to have to get to the meetings aren't
>I?? Springvale is a fair hike from Brunswick but looks like I have to do
it!
>:-) )
>
>Russell
>Melbourne, Australia
>1965 MKIIIA Sprite
>Large Ginger Cat
>( I just need to pad this section so I don't feel left out )
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mike Gigante
>> Sent: Friday, June 12, 1998 9:08 PM
>> To: Evangelos G. Makris; spridgets@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: anti-roll bar
>>
>>
>> Evangelos, you have opened Pandora's box. A delight, rewarding,
>> fun etc, but you cannot stop once you start. You become an automaton
>> forever chasing the next modification to go better, faster for longer.
>>
>> Seriously though, on rough roads, I'd probably just go for some (2-3
>> degrees)
>> negative camber, progressively wound springs and a telescopic damper
>> conversion. Many of the things that can be done are not appropriate for
>> rough roads. Don't be tempted to lower the ride height - while it does
>> improve front-end cornering power, you flinch over every large bump or
>> pothole. It won't be as much fun as it should be.
>>
>> Neg camber can be achieved by replacement trunnions (with a different
>> offset between the kingpin and the lever arm bolt - this is what I use
>> to give me 2.5 degrees), offset a-arm (inner) bushes or a spacer under
>> the lever arms. I don't like the later - it does give some static
negative
>> camber
>> but at the expense of inferior (dynamic) geometry. negative camber will
>> improve
>> turn-in and front-end cornering power for modern radial tyres.
>> Don't use it
>> if you
>> plan to use cross-ply tyres!
>>
>> the idea behind progressively wound springs is to be supple over
>> the little
>> bumps
>> but stiffer as the bumps (or roll) gets larger. It is a nice solution for
>> bumpy roads
>> because you aren't losing suspension travel (droop).
>>
>> Telescopic shocks can transform the handling at the front.
>> Improved turn-in
>> and
>> much better control over bumps.
>>
>> Also, while you are at it, check all the bushes in the front end!
>>
>> cheers, Mike
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Evangelos G. Makris <emakris@hol.gr>
>> To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Friday, June 12, 1998 8:50 PM
>> Subject: Re: anti-roll bar
>>
>>
>> >Thanks to all the people who helped with their replies.
>> >
>> >My car is a 1966 Mk3 Sprite (HAN8L) and does not have
>> >the holes on the wishbones.
>> >
>> >THat and our roads being not that smooth (far from it
>> >actually) I guess I shouldn't bother drilling and fitting one.
>> >
>> >I asked the original question because my cars understeers
>> >a lot and there is a general (evident) feeling of
>> >wiggle-ness in the front whenever it goes over anomalies,
>> >which is to say, most of the times.
>> >
>> >Perhaps I should turn my attention to other parts of
>> >the steering-suspension system....such as?
>> >
>> >Evangelos
>> >
>>
>
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Penney <rpenney@cyberspace.net.au>
To: Mike Gigante <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; spridgets@autox.team.net
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, June 12, 1998 9:47 PM
Subject: RE: anti-roll bar
>THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!
>
>> Don't be tempted to lower the ride height - while it does
>> improve front-end cornering power, you flinch over every large bump or
>> pothole.
>
>This explains my car's current bouncing. The DPO put lower springs on the
>front, at least an inch!
>Now can you recommend and good telescopic damper conversion kit that is
>available in Melbourne? ( I am going to have to get to the meetings aren't
>I?? Springvale is a fair hike from Brunswick but looks like I have to do
it!
>:-) )
>
>Russell
>Melbourne, Australia
>1965 MKIIIA Sprite
>Large Ginger Cat
>( I just need to pad this section so I don't feel left out )
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mike Gigante
>> Sent: Friday, June 12, 1998 9:08 PM
>> To: Evangelos G. Makris; spridgets@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: anti-roll bar
>>
>>
>> Evangelos, you have opened Pandora's box. A delight, rewarding,
>> fun etc, but you cannot stop once you start. You become an automaton
>> forever chasing the next modification to go better, faster for longer.
>>
>> Seriously though, on rough roads, I'd probably just go for some (2-3
>> degrees)
>> negative camber, progressively wound springs and a telescopic damper
>> conversion. Many of the things that can be done are not appropriate for
>> rough roads. Don't be tempted to lower the ride height - while it does
>> improve front-end cornering power, you flinch over every large bump or
>> pothole. It won't be as much fun as it should be.
>>
>> Neg camber can be achieved by replacement trunnions (with a different
>> offset between the kingpin and the lever arm bolt - this is what I use
>> to give me 2.5 degrees), offset a-arm (inner) bushes or a spacer under
>> the lever arms. I don't like the later - it does give some static
negative
>> camber
>> but at the expense of inferior (dynamic) geometry. negative camber will
>> improve
>> turn-in and front-end cornering power for modern radial tyres.
>> Don't use it
>> if you
>> plan to use cross-ply tyres!
>>
>> the idea behind progressively wound springs is to be supple over
>> the little
>> bumps
>> but stiffer as the bumps (or roll) gets larger. It is a nice solution for
>> bumpy roads
>> because you aren't losing suspension travel (droop).
>>
>> Telescopic shocks can transform the handling at the front.
>> Improved turn-in
>> and
>> much better control over bumps.
>>
>> Also, while you are at it, check all the bushes in the front end!
>>
>> cheers, Mike
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Evangelos G. Makris <emakris@hol.gr>
>> To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Friday, June 12, 1998 8:50 PM
>> Subject: Re: anti-roll bar
>>
>>
>> >Thanks to all the people who helped with their replies.
>> >
>> >My car is a 1966 Mk3 Sprite (HAN8L) and does not have
>> >the holes on the wishbones.
>> >
>> >THat and our roads being not that smooth (far from it
>> >actually) I guess I shouldn't bother drilling and fitting one.
>> >
>> >I asked the original question because my cars understeers
>> >a lot and there is a general (evident) feeling of
>> >wiggle-ness in the front whenever it goes over anomalies,
>> >which is to say, most of the times.
>> >
>> >Perhaps I should turn my attention to other parts of
>> >the steering-suspension system....such as?
>> >
>> >Evangelos
>> >
>>
>
|