At 01:49 PM 4/3/98 -0000, you wrote:
>Les Myer wrote:
>> You need to give the new pistons to the machinist so he can fit each
>> individual bore to the particular piston.
>
>Ok, I can't measure my block (don't have a bore gage), so I don't know
>if/how much the block needs bored. The shop will do that for me. So,
>they measure it, tell me how much it needs bored, and I take my block
>back home. Then I order my pistons and a week later they show up. Do I
>take just my pistons in with the block or do I put them on the rods? Do
>I put the rods on the crank?
>
>This is all quite confusing. Seems the machinist could just say "needs
>to go .020 over" and he bores it and I order my pistons and put it
>together. Not good enough, eh?
>--
> Matt Liggett
> '60 Mini, '70 Midget, '89 SAAB 900t SPG
>
Nope, not good enough. Leave the block there while you get pistons
(oversize per the machinist). He will size the cylinders to each piston
with a hone. The machinist will have to install the pistons on the rods
(which will probably need resized on the big end anyways), since this takes
special tools to not damage the pistons. When going back together,
remember the longer rod-cap boss on rods 1 and 3 goes to the rear - on 2
and 4, the long boss goes to the front. If the piston has a dot or a mark,
this goes to the front (otherwise they are probably omnidirectional
pistons). If this is your first time, it might be best to have an
experienced friend show you how to orient the rings (yes, you need a
special tool to get them on the pistons without damaging them or the
pistons), compress them, install the crank/pistons/bearings, and how to
plastiguage clearances. Not meaning to scare you, just trying to save some
heartache and frustration as well as make sure it is done right.
Les
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