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RE: Additional Suggestions for Manifold Removal? (Was Open-End

To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Additional Suggestions for Manifold Removal? (Was Open-End
From: "Ron Deaver" <rrdeaver@emagichappens.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 16:41:26 -0800
I want to thank everyone for ideas on how to address stubborn inner manifold
bolts.  In putting together a replacement parts list for this project, I
noticed that the TRF and Vicky Brit catalogs note a couple of different
types of nuts for the inner studs.  I now realize that my Federal engine has
the large California-spec nuts (about 1" long) on the inner studs.  *If* I
had the normal regular nuts on these studs, I could get a socket in there
with an angle attachment or wobble bar.  With the long nuts in place, I was
able to get a flexible-jointed/hinged Crescent ratchet box wrench on the end
of the nut, but did not have enough room to turn the wrench enough to loosen
the nut.  I can't get an open end wrench on the nut at an angle which will
allow any leverage on the nut.

A socket might fit over the nut, but there is only about 3/8" between the
end of the nut and the intake manifold.  At least this gives some clue as to
the right wrench for the job.  I look forward to sharing what it takes to
successfully get the nuts off, and to installing normal nuts on
reassembly...

-----Original Message-----
From: James Carruthers [mailto:j.carruthers@rave.ac.uk] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 7:17 AM
To: bill@rarebits4classics.co.uk
Cc: rrdeaver@emagichappens.com; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Additional Suggestions for Manifold Removal? (Was Open-End
Ratchet for manifold nuts)


EVen better is 1/4 drive with a wobble bar....




William Davies said:

>
> I've had good luck in the past by using 3/8" drive sockets rather than 
> the 1/2" variety. It's a few years since I've had to do this, but as I 
> remember I used a knuckle jointed bar rather than a ratchet - this 
> gave enough articulation to loosen and tighten the nuts under the 
> manifold,

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