John,
Installing a head s really not all that difficult. Getting the bolts properly
torqued is paramount, however. I suggest getting
yourself a Haynes manual. It has a good description of the process including a
torque guide.
BUT!!!!! I discovered something that none of the books mention. When I bought
a NOS STANPART head gasket a couple of years ago, it
included a scrap of paper stating that the head needs to be torqued in the
following manner:
1. Install the head as normal (according to the procedure in the manual)
2. Torque it according to the specifications in the manual
3. Adjust the valves as prescribed by the manual
4. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature
5. Immediately remove the rocker assembly and retorque the head while the
engine is still hot!!!
I did this and was amazed at how loose the bolts became after the engine warmed
up. I am convinced that has contributed to the very
high degree of reliability I have experienced with this engine!
If you only need to replace the head gasket and not rebuild the entire engine,
you can get a kit for that specific job. It includes
not only the head gasket, but also all manifold gaskets and other parts that
are required.
Best of luck,
Joe
John Weber wrote:
>
> OK...so the consensus seems to be that even with the shop removing the head,
> reinstalling etc, that 600 is tooooo high.
>
> So, just how technically nasty is reinstalling the head? Is there something
> out there other than my Haynes manual for guidance? I can get it off the
> block in about an hour from what it looks like.
> Any tripping points?
> Any tripping points on the reinstall?
>
> Who makes the best head gasket?
>
> Is there a kit for this job from one of the troika of suppliers?
>
> John
> '75 Spit
|