HI Atwell
I don't see the reason behind this as the pads pistons should move fairly
freely in the calliper.
I don't wish to disagree with the manual but I have workshop manuals
(original Triumph / Leyland) for all my cars (Though I don't have a
Spitfire) I have had Heralds, same front and rear suspension as Spits, and
none of them say anything about removing the calliper. I have never even
loosened the bolts on mine and always had good results from adjusting the
bearings even before I started using my own method.
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>
To: Graham Stretch <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>; Jeff McNeal
<jmcneal@ohms.com>
Cc: List Spitfires <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 12:35 AM
Subject: Re: wheel wobble woes
> At 09:48 PM 02/22/00 -0000, Graham Stretch wrote:
> >
> >Hi Jeff
> >To adjust, remove the cap in the centre of the
> >hub, remove the split pin, adjust the nut tighter under light pressure
from
> >a socket wrench until movement stops then back off about 1 flat until a
new
> >pin will go through the hole some models have 2 holes in the stub axle to
> >allow a greater choice of fitting. That's the official method,
>
> Graham,
>
> I'll interject here that the Bentley manual says to remove the brake
> caliper first. I think this is to prevent the brake pads from resisting
the
> proper seating of the bearings on the stub axle.
>
> I'm lazy, I just loosen the caliper bolts.
>
> By the way, I'm sad to report that the release-nut-glued under-the
> center-hub-cap trick, failed me the other day. The hub cap/dust cover was
> new; it held so tightly the nut broke free, so I had to vise-grip the cap
> off anyway. :(
>
> Good thing I didn't have any gunpowder....right Carter?
>
>
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