Thanks Bob,
Your answers got me most of the way there and I found a guy on the web that
sells Mallory equipment who was very helpful with tech support even though
I didn't buy it from him. His name is Sam Solace and his site is
http://www.centuryperformance.com/Default.htm . I figure his online speed
shop deserves a quick plug for his kind help, very nice and knowledgeable guy.
At any rate, my new dual point distributor is in and working!!! Yippie!!!
This is the first time the car has sprung to life in over a year, so its
nice to have it running. A couple more weeks and I should have all the
little stuff done to make it roadworthy.
I had a strange problem today with it once it was running. I checked my
oil level and found it to be VERY high, almost twice too much oil. It
seemed pretty thin also. After scratching my head for a bit I noticed that
it smelled like gas. Now I remember reading about this problem on the list
a while back. So I immediately pulled the mechanical fuel pump off and
checked it for leaking into the block. Sure enough it was, probably about
5% of the gas it was pumping was going into the block. :( Luckily I have
an electric pump to put on from my recent parting out of my '76.
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped out. With any luck she
will be on the road in a couple weeks. Yep, she's a woman. No name yet
but definately a woman.
David Gates
Hawaii
At 06:16 PM 6/18/99 -0700, you wrote:
>David writes:
>
>> For my '78 Spitfire I have a new Mallory dual point distributor (VB
>> 17-501), Mallory super duty chrome coil (VB 17-570), and Mallory coil
>> resistor (VB 17-571). I have the distributor physically installed in the
>> car, but I am a little unsure of the electrical connections.
>[...]
>> 1. Because the new distributor is points it only has one electrical
>> connection. Should this be the white/black wire on the above mentioned
>> connector? It looks like the other end goes to the - coil. Then there is
>> another white/black wire on the - coil that must go to the tach but I did
>> not ohm that one out.
>
>On my car(s) these wires are white/slate, but no matter, use
>the one from the old connector at the dizzy to connect to your Mallory.
>The other end does go to the coil (-), and the other wire on this coil
>post feeds the tach. You have sussed it out.
>
>> 2. How does the white/blue and the white wire come into play? The
>> schematics show them connecting to the distributor somehow but it doesn't
>> show how. With only one terminal on the distributor I can't see this
>> happening anyway.
>
>The remaining (unused) wires in the connector were to provide +12V and
>connection to the drive resistor to the original electronic ignition.
>You don't need them anymore.
>
>> 3. The VB catalog (SG.27) pg 21 says "Mallory resistor should be used to
>> replace stock resistor. Super Duty coil must be used with proper ballast
>> resistor." So, I have this new resistor. Does it replace the one mounted
>> by the alternator connected to a white and a white/blue wire? These are
>> the other ends of the wires as mentioned in #2 above.
>
>The resistor mounted by the alternator is the "drive" resistor (it was)
>used
>by the original electronic ignition. It's no longer needed and is not
>related to the ballast resistance. I don't know the specifics, but I
>presume the "Mallory Resistor" that they want you to use has a different
>ohmic value or power dissipation rating.
>
>> 4. What about the "proper ballast resistor" that the catalog mentions?
>> This sounds like the ballast resistor wire that connects to the starter
>> solenoid. It ohms out at 1.5 ohms. Is this the "proper" ballast for this
>> setup? I thought the 40,000 volt coil was not suppose to use a ballast
>> resistor. The VTR page write up says that the 40,000 volt coil should have
>> a bypass on this so it is always 12v to the coil. So why does the VB
>> catalog say I need the "proper" one if its not even suppose to be in use?
>
>You might measure the resistance of the Mallory resistor and see if it
>is
>also 1.5 ohm. Whether or not any external ballast resistance is
>appropriate
>for the 40kV coil you have.... I can't say for sure.
>
>Hope this helps,
>Bob (& '78 Spits)
>
>
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