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Re: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in aluminum oil pan

To: miq@bigllama.com, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Drilling a hole in aluminum oil pan
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2020 19:47:17 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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If you need the hole, I'd pull the pan.  As someone already said - what 
would you say about a shop that left shavings in your new engine?

Don't know the flow rate of oil from the turbo, but how close is AN10 to 
3/8 NPT.  A quick search shows Summit has a connector for the two:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-26006

I'd try and go simple since this look a similar size in the picture at 
the link above.

Brian

On 10/3/2020 8:56 AM, Miq Millman wrote:
> Here's what I want to do:
>
> Drill a 23/32' hole in the side of the oil pan for the (1/2 NPT-AN10 
> steel braided line that allows the oil from the turbo back into the 
> block.  I have the NPT tap ready.
>
> Here are the complications:
>
> 1) pan is bolted and sealed to the block -- I would rather not remove it
> 2) oil pan is aluminum not steel
> 3) there is already a threaded hole for 3/8 NPT
> 4) engine is newly built long block, with most of the ancillaries 
> still to be attached, on an engine stand.
> 5) there is an additional hole on the opposite side of the pan for an 
> oil temp sensor
>
> Here is what I am thinking:
>
> 1) coat the drill bit in some red grease to collect aluminum shavings
> 2) seal off water and vacuum passages with tape
> 3) set air compressor to something very low, like 20 psi, and thread 
> into the oil sensor hole (1/8 NPT)
> 4) fabricobble up a reduced hose to the shop vac line and point that 
> at the drilling point
> 5) drill in short bursts, possibly cleaning the bit and grease each 
> time, and reapplying grease
> 6) after I tap the hole (also a challenge due to the length of the tap 
> and the baffle inside the pan) dump 5-6 quarts of the cheapest 10 w 
> oil at the FLAPS and kind of "slosh" it around by slightly rotating 
> the engine on the stand, drain and repeat again
> 7) check second pot of drained oil for metal shavings, if found try 
> gas or diesel followed by 3rd round of cheap oil flush
>
> Open to options and opinions.  Including telling me not to be an idiot 
> with my $8000 engine and just pull the pan.
>
> --
> __
> Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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    If you need the hole, I'd pull the pan.  As someone already said -
    what would you say about a shop that left shavings in your new
    engine?<br>
    <br>
    Don't know the flow rate of oil from the turbo, but how close is
    AN10 to 3/8 NPT.  A quick search shows Summit has a connector for
    the two:<br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" 
href="https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-26006";>https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-26006</a><br>
    <br>
    I'd try and go simple since this look a similar size in the picture
    at the link above.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/3/2020 8:56 AM, Miq Millman
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CALUbS3Gj1RSWwLj6TSeSY8pCfAZUa8Z3znhBZChuV-+H0qHEUA@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div>Here's what I want to do:</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Drill a 23/32' hole in the side of the oil pan for the (1/2
          NPT-AN10 steel braided line that allows the oil from the turbo
          back into the block.  I have the NPT tap ready.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Here are the complications:</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>1) pan is bolted and sealed to the block -- I would rather
          not remove it</div>
        <div>2) oil pan is aluminum not steel</div>
        <div>3) there is already a threaded hole for 3/8 NPT</div>
        <div>4) engine is newly built long block, with most of the
          ancillaries still to be attached, on an engine stand.</div>
        <div>5) there is an additional hole on the opposite side of the
          pan for an oil temp sensor</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Here is what I am thinking:</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>1) coat the drill bit in some red grease to collect
          aluminum shavings</div>
        <div>2) seal off water and vacuum passages with tape</div>
        <div>3) set air compressor to something very low, like 20 psi,
          and thread into the oil sensor hole (1/8 NPT)</div>
        <div>4) fabricobble up a reduced hose to the shop vac line and
          point that at the drilling point</div>
        <div>5) drill in short bursts, possibly cleaning the bit and
          grease each time, and reapplying grease</div>
        <div>6) after I tap the hole (also a challenge due to the length
          of the tap and the baffle inside the pan) dump 5-6 quarts of
          the cheapest 10 w oil at the FLAPS and kind of "slosh" it
          around by slightly rotating the engine on the stand, drain and
          repeat again</div>
        <div>7) check second pot of drained oil for metal shavings, if
          found try gas or diesel followed by 3rd round of cheap oil
          flush</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Open to options and opinions.  Including telling me not to
          be an idiot with my $8000 engine and just pull the pan.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>
          <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"
            data-smartmail="gmail_signature">--<br>
            __<br>
            Miq Millman   <a href="mailto:miq@bigllama.com";
              target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">miq@bigllama.com</a><br>
            Tualatin, OR  Big Llama Productions<br>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" 
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