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[Shop-talk] Tapeless Joint Compound?

Subject: [Shop-talk] Tapeless Joint Compound?
From: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas)
Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2012 13:08:42 -0400
References: <COL115-W31E79441B554CCF0967A3DCC090@phx.gbl>
On 6/1/2012 10:23 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> About 10 years ago I did some drywall repair for a friend of mine, fixing a
> spot where the original tape had come away from the wall, exposing the joint
> between the two sheets.  I wanted to use fresh tape and conventional compound,
> but he had a product called "ATI Tapeless Joint Compound" that he had
> purchased at Home Depot for the job and wanted me to try.  I was skeptical but
> gave it a try.  10 years later the area still looks perfect.  I now need to
> repair an area around a light switch at my house and would love to use a
> similar product to avoid the tape buildup under one side of the switch plate.
> I Googled the company (Applied Textures Inc) and the product but all I can
> find are old forum postings.  The company's website is no longer functional,
> so I assume they are out of business.  Has anyone heard of a similar product?
> I looked at Lowe's, Home Depot and Ace Hardware, but none of them carried
> anything similar.
>
> Thanks.
I've had great success using "liquid tape".  What I have done is cut a 
rectangular patch.  Used the patch to clean up the hole. Easier to fit 
the hole to the patch rather than the reverse.  Add blocking around the 
hole inside the wall using scrap pieces of wood.  Just hold the wood in 
place and drive screws through the original wall board.  Then attach the 
patch with wood screws.  Next I fill the crack with dry wall compound.  
Once dry, I sand the seam making sure to expose the paper skin on both 
the patch and the original wall board.  This leaves a band, about an 
inch wide, that is paper and a small amount of filler compound.  I then 
paint the band with "liquid tape" otherwise known as wood glue.  The 
glue soaks into the exposed paper and the compound crack fill and forms 
a really, really strong seamless skin.  After the glue is dried I do a 
quick sanding to remove any high spot (area with too much glue was 
applied).  Apply a quick coat of compound to level things out, sand, paint.

Wood glue is stronger than wood or paper.  I find this holds up better 
than a taped patch and is dead flat.   I moved a light fixture and used 
this technique to path the wall.  Being adjacent to the light I can't 
see the patch.  I challenged my wife to find the patch and she 
couldn't.  Even holding a flash light at a sever angle which shows every 
taped seam and nail, the patch is invisible.

Peter T.
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