I don't know if it was correct, but that is how I have adjusted mine. I use one
rod to turn it, the other to hold it while I then take another bite, and turn it
one more quarter. I do this with the door open, and although there is more
tension that way, access to the spring is far easier. I can't even see the
spring when it's open.
I did this same sort of thing on my trailer door. I used to have a 7 foot wide
trailer with a ramp door, and where the cables came to meet the door, the width
between the cables was less than 6.5 feet. To get the cables out of the way for
loading, I fastened them to the door with those take-apart chain links. I would
slacken the cable with the rods, using one to lock the winders in this slack
position, and then detach the cables from the door. Worked like a charm.
The rods were half inch stock and about 12 inches long for the locking bar,
maybe about 18 inches for the turning one (more leverage). The purpose of the
shorter one was just to hold it in place via the spring tension. It "locked"
against the framework overhead.
Mark Andy wrote:
> I've got a weak garage door that has a wound spring around a rod at the
> front top of the door...
> Do I just need a couple rods of the appropriate size to wind a little more
> tension into the spring? Presumably I should put a rod in, hold it, and
> loosen what looks like a set screw, then wind a turn into it, reset the
> set screw, test, etc.?
> Doors are pretty heavy... Should I do this with the garage door up or
> down? Seems like the spring would have less tension on it if the door was
> up, but I dunno about how much access I'd have...
> Appreciate any pointers. Thanks!