Huh, I think it sent before I was done.
Stainless won't take well to a double flare. I have used the 37 degree Parker
Rolo Flair tool with great success. It's about 90 bucks at McMaster or one of
the aircraft supply companies. The tool isn't rated for stainless, but I
suspect a new tool and double annealed tube would work fine.
My understanding of the double flare is that it was invented to keep Bundyweld
tubing from cracking. This is a double walled tube that is brazed after rolling
from a sheet. It has existed since the beginning of time. Some swear by the
stuff, some hate the stuff, I haven't decided yet.
The last race car I did I used annealed, seamless, steel tubing. It had a
chromate finish for corrosion protection. I used a single flare and the proper
37 degree fittings, which can be had with just about any other end on it from
race houses. It worked very well and avoided having to use a single flare on
Bundyweld tubing, which some would say is playing with fire.
So, rolled steel tubing and double flares, or seamless stainless and single 37
degree flares. Fittings are different, but available for whichever you do. For
an oletruck, I would do the double flare but invest in a decent tool. I found
fittings for this at Pep Boys. This is the only thing I have ever found that
store useful for.
Keith
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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