> When you disabled the ammeter did you tie the two leads together?
> Lee
Which two leads? No.. By the time I gave up trying to repair all of the
previous repairs I was just cutting anything that was botched up. If it
didn't run after that I would wire what was needed: which this problem
probably falls under.
The wiring under the hood was in the same shape, tho some of it appeared
to be original cloth covered wiring for the lights, thus much of it was
removed as well.
At this time one lead from the Ammeter goes to the ignition switch and
is still connected. The other hangs freely now. I've tried to review the
original electrical schematics in the shoppe manual as well as the
drawings in the factory assembly manual but
1: am not sure the wiring should be the same as shown as the truck was
manufactured with 6 volt, pos ground and a generator ( if it's been
converted to 12v Neg ground it now has an alternator, correct? ) and has
been reworked to 12v neg ground.
2: It's been a long time since I last read an electrical diagram, thus
I'm following it but not clearly understanding what is plainly says.
Then again this is part of why I'm working on the trucks, to get back to
being able to do such tasks for fun ( vs doing so for a living ).
As the second wire is hanging with the end wrapped in electrical tape I
assume you weren't suggesting shorting the ammeter to itself <??> I
note in the original drawings the ammeter has four leads going to it,
not the two I can see now. I plan to properly rewire the truck one day.
However can you suggest a way to get the charging circuit back up for
now? Gauge usage is not important ( except for oil pressure which is
separate ), but I would like to get safely to the dump and back if
possible.
Paul
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|