I see what you mean by sanding the base first, but also the clear will cover
up a lot of things. I just painted my cab and had a problem with fisheyes
(really small pinholes in patches everywhere), and I was able to use fisheye
reducer in the second coat, but it wasn't perfect yet, then when the clear
was sprayed, it flowed and went flat.
>From: Byron Schluter <b_schluter@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Byron Schluter <b_schluter@yahoo.com>
>To: Rob <a70ragtop@hotmail.com>, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com,
>_Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Painting questions
>Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:34:28 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Rob,
>
>Check out the following website and I think it might
>answer your question: www.project33.com. This guy is
>building a 33 Ford 3 window coupe and documenting the
>whole process, start to finnish, on the website. Look
>in the section "construction" and find the section
>where he paints the frame body color. He uses
>base/clear coat process and talks about the exact
>issue you've brought up. He was advised by a
>professional car painter and the reasoning makes a lot
>of sense.
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Byron
>--- Rob <a70ragtop@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Speaking of paint jobs, I'm hoping there is a
> > painter out there who can answer
> > this:
> >
> > If I want to go base/clear, is it possible to sand
> > out the base coat so that
> > it is "perfect" before the clear goes on? In other
> > words, color sand the base
> > coat as you would a single stage paint, with
> > ultimately say a 400-600 grit
> > wet-paper? Obviously that would leave the base
> > sorta hazy, but when I've seen
> > a base/clear job done, the base is already
> > intentionally hazy (maybe "FLAT"
> > would be a better word to call it?)...the haziness
> > disappears when you put the
> > clear on (sorta like what happens when you put a
> > rock into water...dull colors
> > are no longer dull).
> >
> > Seems to me, that unless you can make the base coat
> > "perfect", any
> > imperfections in the base, will be shown in the
> > clear, and then, the repair is
> > more problematic. I know that normally, the clear
> > coat follows right on the
> > heals of the base (within a couple of hours I
> > believe). Is there a point when
> > it is just plain too LATE to put clear on top of the
> > base, or is it one of
> > those situations, where it must either be within,
> > say 2 hours, or if longer
> > than that, then you must wait, say a week or longer,
> > ie. there is a point when
> > it is ok, then not ok, then becomes ok again given
> > enough time for
> > gases/vapors to bleed off. Any comments?
> >
> > Rob
> >
> > My Zen Moment for the Day: Duct tape is like the
> > "Force." It has a light
> > side and a dark side, and it holds the universe
> > together.
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > between 1941 and 1959
>Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
>http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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