A friend of mine restored a '48 GMC truck, for his steering wheel he used
Acrylic
Enamel appliance paint from a rattle can, his steering wheel looks incredible,
he
was able to get the exact color (Almond) of the original wheel. He even offered
to
restore my steering wheel for me, he is retired and since he finished his
truck, he
offered to help with mine. This guy does not have access to a computer and
wants me
to post pictures of his truck to the web, I will let you know when I post them.
Thanks,
Antonio
'53 3100
Grant Galbraith wrote:
> Yes, I've used the paint. It is a very nice match to the original but is
> lacquer, as the original was. I think Bob can match it to an enamel which
>might
> be more durable. Mine has worn off in a couple heavily used spots after two
> years and 25K. You can still mail Bob with, as he puts it, factory restoration
> questions. I know he sells a paint chip set, which may include steering wheel
> paint.
> A second problem I had with my wheel restoration was tiny cracks or
>checking.
> I routed and filled any obvious crack but the wheel also had hundreds of small
> checks. They sanded off nicely but have returned.
>
> Grant
> 50 Chevy 3100
> 52 GMC 150
>
> Brian Stephens wrote:
>
> > All right! I am glad to see this list reverting to the task at hand; old
> > trucks and our work on them.
> > Jim Carter sells paint which he says is the specific color for the steering
> > column , wheel, etc. Has anyone used this product? At $35 a pint, does
> > anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Where is Bob ADler when you need him!
> > Brian Stephens
> > 49 3104
> > Owasso, OK
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dale Withroder" <dale@pro-mentoring.com>
> > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 2:05 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
> >
> > > should the steering wheel be black, or the interior color?
> > >
> > >
> > > At 02:28 PM 12/05/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> > > >Mike, I plan to put one coat of primer on the wheel, then 2-3 coats of
> > black
> > > >enamel.....then 2-3 coats of clearcoat. Some of the other list members
> > used
> > > >this process and say it seems to work for years. I'll post a report on
> > the
> > > >process as soon as I'm finished. HOPEFULLY, it will be a positive
> > report.
> > > >
> > > >Larry Kephart has an excellent article on his webpage regarding steering
> > > >wheel restoration. The address is........
> > > >http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2000/wip4a.htm Thanks Larry for doing
> > such
> > > >a great job documenting the process.
> > > >
> > > >Good luck with your wheel, Mike!
> > > >Tom Caperton
> > > >47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
> > > >To: <tcape@weblnk.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > >Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 11:58 AM
> > > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair....shaping wheel
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> In a message dated 12/5/00 7:13:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > > >> writes:
> > > >>
> > > >> > Well, I'm moving right along with the restoration of the steering
> > wheel
> > > >on
> > > >> > my '47-2. I washed the wheel with Fast Orange hand cleaner and got
> > all
> > > >the
> > > >> > gunk off. I then cut the cracks with a Dremel tool to make room for
> > > >the
> > > >> J-B
> > > >> > Weld. Now that the J-BW has dried, I need to cut it down and shape
> > it
> > > >to
> > > >> > the wheel. What's the best tool to use in doing this....round
> > > >> > file....rasp...other tools?? This is my first time working with J-B
> > > >Weld,
> > > >> > but I assume I won't be able to just sand it down to where it blends
> > > >with
> > > >> > the shape of the wheel. I'd sure appreciate your help with this.
> > And
> > > >a
> > > >> > special thanks to all the folks who supplied the information on
> > > >restoring
> > > >> > the wheel. I wouldn't have attempted this if you hadn't jumped in
> > with
> > > >> such
> > > >> > good instructions and advice.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > One additional comment and question......When I cut the cracks out
> > with
> > > >the
> > > >> > Dremel tool, I think I cut them too deep. I cut all the way down to
> > > >the
> > > >> > metal core....which left a pretty deep rut to fill. Is it necessary
> > to
> > > >cut
> > > >> > that far down? Can you just cut just a little way down into the
> > crack
> > > >and
> > > >> > still get the J-B Weld or epoxy to stick in there OK and not crack
> > > >again in
> > > >> > the future? I'll soon be restoring the steering wheel on a '29 F**d
> > > >and
> > > >> > don't want to make the same mistakes twice. Thanks in advance for
> > your
> > > >> > help!
> > > >> > Tom Caperton
> > > >> > 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > > >> > tcape@weblnk.net
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> Hi Tom,
> > > >>
> > > >> I actually saw a guy cut the whole section of the crack out...made
> > about
> > > >a
> > > >> 1/2inch gap, then filled with an epoxy-type stuff...then used a narrow
> > > >> sanding drum on a drill to shape it...don't know if it was necessary,
> > but
> > > >he
> > > >> sure came out with a nice looking match.
> > > >>
> > > >> What are you using for paint that won't come off in your hands?
> > > >>
> > > >> Mike
> > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > > >
> > > --
> > > Dale Withroder PH: 1-888-233-8469
> > > dale@pro-mentoring.com FAX: 1-800-669-1132
> > > multimedia development http://www.pro-mentoring.com
> > > Professional Mentoring, LLC ICQ: 13411058
> > > --
> > > Between two evils, I always pick the one I never tried before.
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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