Your proposed method of adjusting valves works real
well with hydraulic-lifter-equipped engines that use
a single stationary nut to adjust the clearance. I
don't think this method would adapt well to engines
that use an adjustment screw with lock nut that is
moving while the engine is running.
-----Original Message-----
From: 237459N@knotes.kodak.com [mailto:237459N@knotes.kodak.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 10:25 AM
To: oletrucks-digest@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] rear end/valve adjustments
From: W P. Fricke
I would like to approach high way speeds on my '53 if I so desire and am
planning to do the ring/pinion swap for a 4:11 rear. I haven't done this
before but those around me assure me that it is very doable. Everyone
concur? I don't want to end up with a whine because something wasn't
shimmed probably.
Secondly, my engine (235) seems to be a little noisy and I want to adjust
the valves/tappets to quiet things down. A friend of mine told me that on
these engines some guys pick up an extra cover and cut the top off to do
the adjustment. They do it with the engine running. The cover keeps the oil
contained. Anyone practice this process. Sounds kind of cool.
Lastly, I've been suspicious that the designation of my truck as a
thriftmaster is incorrect. That thriftmaster was dropped for something else
(loadmaster?) in '53. Is this correct. Did the previous owner add the hood
from another year (It fits a little tight on the driver's side and has
separate emblems for chevrolet and 3100 on the sides).
Patrick
'53 3100 5-window 4 speed on the floor
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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