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Re: [oletrucks] Electrical drain

To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Electrical drain
From: B&A Kettunen <bekett@uslink.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 20:24:58 -0500 (CDT)
Coud the generator need repolarizing?  Does the ammeter indicate  a heavy
charge or discharge?  Is there a short in the coil?  Is there a short
somewhere else?  Is the battery polarity correct (negative ground for a
Chevy, don't know off hand about the GMC's)?  Pull the negative terminal
and measure amps between the cable and the battery terminal with everything
turned off and just the ignition key turned on.  There should be zero amps
with the key turned off unless the lights are on or something is shorting.

These are just some places to start.  It should run about an hour or so
with the battery fully charged.

Bruce Kettunen
57 3200
Mt. Iron, MN

Check out the Shifter's car show in North Hibbing tomorrow.

>Probably far too vague a question to ask without any more info, but here
>goes anyway.
>
>I've got my '56 3100 running fairly smoothly, and over the last few weeks
>had started it in the drive a number of time while tweaking this or that.  2
>weeks ago, I drove the thing 6 blocks to the shop where I'm starting on the
>body work, and it ran like a top.  Unfortunately, after driving only that
>far, the battery was completely dead.  Had the battery tested (OK), fully
>recharged overnight with the trickle charger, drove her home 6 blocks, and
>it was sucked dead again.
>
>No headlights turned on, no radio installed, no heater installed, no
>electrical accessory whatsoever to be drawing the current.  Even if the
>generator was completely bad, I wouldn't think that the battery should be
>dead after a 6 block drive.
>
>Anyone have any ideas off the top of their head?
>
>Scott...
>ICQ 28121896
>
>"You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me."
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959




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