These guys do work for contractors who do work at Kirkland AFB in Abq. NM,
sometimes. If their work will pass military requirements, it passes my
requirements, as well. I agree, if the chemicals are not completely removed, it
will, someday, cause a paint job nightmare and I asked them about that. Before
they let any jobs go, they send it through a water bath and heated to drive off
all traces of chemicals. Its not the process, its the guy doing the work. When
they showed me around, there was a guy polishing some stainless car or truck
trim. The place was clean for a shop like that. These guys really seemed to like
their work. Obviously a non union shop, hehe.
Deve Krehbiel wrote:
> I would even go further and eliminate chemicals of ANY kind. I have heard
> from some of my other resources (like autorestorers.com) that chemicals get
> into the weld seams and you simply cant get it out.. ever! So, after awhile,
> the chemicals go to work on the paint from the inside and there is a good
> chance of ruined or at least lessening the life of the paint job. Armed with
> this info, I only dry strip. Bead blast all the small parts, dry strip (and
> when the company doesnt do a good enuf job) RE-dry strip using a siphon
> sandblaster and number 4 fine sand. There isnt any place I cant get to and
> once cleaned I feel absolutely confident the job is ready for priming. Side
> benefit is no caustic fumes and no mess that a shop vac cant handle. I am
> sure this is all a matter of preference but as a novice at this, I try to
> research these issues as thoroughly as possible.
>
> Deve
> 50 3100
> 49 3600
> www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ADvent@thuntek.net>
> To: "BORDER,RYAN (HP-FtCollins,ex1)" <ryan_border@hp.com>
> Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 10:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] undercoating removal-fenders
>
> > I am not a fan of the Por 15 type products. No, bondo requires a very
> clean
> > surface to stick to. I think if you need a product like Por 15, what you
> really
> > need is a more thorough cleaning. I prefer a chemical dip to clean things
> up.
> > Pitting is the worst thing that can happen with a chemical dip, but
> certainly
> > nothing the primer cannot handle. What will that Por 15 be like in 15 or
> 20
> > years? Will it peel or fall off like cheap Japanese bondo or will it stick
> like
> > good bondo on a properly preped surface?
> > new mexico jim
> >
> > "BORDER,RYAN (HP-FtCollins,ex1)" wrote:
> >
> > > I just went through this on my rear fender project (still underway). I
> used
> > > a good scraper knife with straight razor blades. I bought a pack of 100
> > > razor blades for about $5 at harbor freight and went to town. Sometimes
> I
> > > used a heat gun to soften things up a bit though only when necessary, as
> > > scraping it off cold doesn't leave a residue, using a heat gun tends to.
> I
> > > didn't have too much undercoating; and probably broke 10-15 razor blades
> in
> > > the process.
> > >
> > > Next I scrubbed the whole thing out with a stiff wire brush and a hose-
> > > getting everything as clean as possible. Next step is to Por-15 the
> > > underside of everything. Which actually brings me to a question: I
> cover
> > > the back-side of all my welded areas with fiber-glass re-enforced bondo.
> I
> > > use a disk sander to rough it out, but go ahead and leave it built up
> just a
> > > little to help strengthen the area. The area around the weld is
> typically
> > > surface rusted a bit; which the POR15 really likes to stick to. The
> POR15
> > > also seems to stick really well to the bondo. But, I'm a bit perplexed
> > > about what to do in the area right around the weld:
> > >
> > > 1) Bondo over surface rust, POR15 over bondo... will the bondo stick to
> the
> > > slightly rusted surface OK? Will it continue to rust with a layer of
> bondo
> > > between the POR15 and the metal?
> > >
> > > 2) Sandblast area, bondo and then POR15. Seems this might hurt the
> adhesion
> > > of the POR15 to the metal in the area surrounding the bondo patch. And,
> I
> > > hate to sandblast of a layer of metal in an already weakened (welded,
> > > ground-down) area.
> > >
> > > 3) POR15 and then bondo (then maybe POR15 again). Will bondo stick to
> > > POR15 OK? Will the POR15 stick well to freshly welded and ground metal
> (and
> > > in many cases brand new metal patch panels). My experience has been
> that
> > > POR15 really doesn't like to stick to new metal very well.
> > >
> > > Up until now, I've been going with #1...
> > >
> > > Ryan.
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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