Ignition? Clip a timing lead to the coil lead and each plug lead in turn
and crank, make sure the flashes are regular and consistent. No flashes on
the coil lead means no HT so check the LT. Flashes on the coil lead but not
on all plug leads means a cap and/or rotor problem.
Firing order? 1 3 4 2 *anti*-clockwise.
Timing? With the timing light on No.1 plug lead and pointed at the timing
marks check it shows a few degrees BTDC when cranking. Note that the timing
could still be 180 degrees out.
Rotor position? Whilst the distributor can only be fully inserted to the
engine in one position the distributor itself can be assembled 180 degrees
out, and the drive gear can be fitted in as many positions as it has teeth
but only one is correct. With the plugs out put your thumb over No.1 plug
hole and turn the engine in its normal direction until you can feel the
compression lifting your thumb off. That is the compression stroke prior to
firing that cylinder. When the piston gets to the top of the cylinder on
that stroke that is TDC, see where the rotor is pointing, that position in
the cap is where No.1 plug lead goes, and count the rest from there.
Mixture? After cranking for a bit take the plugs out. If they are wet it
is flooded, especially if the choke has been out, which should be obvious
from a strong fuel smell around the car unless outside on a windy day, crank
with no choke and full throttle to clear it, but be prepared to release the
throttle and half-pull the choke when it catches as it clears (as it
should). If the plugs are dry with no fuel smell there is no fuel getting
through to the cylinders, they would normally have a strong fuel smell but
not be wet if condition are right for firing.
Fuel pump? With an original SU it will only click if it has been off for
several minutes, and then only once, and only two or three times if switched
off over-night unless the engine was hot. Remove a fuel feed pipe from a
carb and direct it into a container, turn on the ignition, and it should
deliver a minimum of one Imperial pint per minute and in practise closer to
two, in a steady series of pulses with minimum bubbles.
Float valves? With the ignition off remove the float chamber lids and check
they contain fuel.
Blocked jet pipes? With the lids back on and with fuel in the float
chambers blow gently in the vent/overflow ports and you should see fuel rise
up out of the jets with the air-cleaners removed.
Carb set to initial settings? Two full turns down from being flush with the
bridge.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
>I am now at the point to start my car. I have gas to the carbs, spark to
>the
> plugs and it will not kick off.
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