No I don't, and obviously the electronic system will keep *its* curve
indefinitely (or until the electronics fail). My point was that the
*original* curves are pretty irrelevant unless one is running on the
original fuels they were designed for, and even then the North American
curves are more aimed at meeting emissions levels than performance. Define
a 'good curve'.
The 123 is fine (at a cost) for someone who wants the original curves, not
for someone who wants the best curve for their engine today. If you aren't
going to spend the time and money determining the best curve for your engine
with today's fuels, and tweak springs and weights to match, you might just
as well stick with a mechanically good distributor with the original curve
from springs and weights (which *are* available) and save both time and
money.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
I fully agree with what you are saying, BUT do you really think that the
'man on the Clapham omnibus' goes to that extent and disassembles and
assembles several times his/her dizzy to tweak the springs (not to speak
about the money a rolling road costs per hour as you already pointed out)?
AND, which system do you think will keep the correct curve within the next
years. Springs will continually change their tension.
After all I think it's better to get close to a good curve and know that it
stays there than knowing nothing about the curve in one's dizzy. This
applies to the average LBC driver, racers may have another opinion on that.
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