Gene,
I was under the impression the air-pump made the catalytic converter
work (better?) by pumping extra air into the exhaust to help burn any
unburned combustion byproducts. Of course, the service interval for
converter replacement is rather short (25,000 miles) so I am under the
impression the cats don't last long, and yours is probably not working
anyway.
If you are exempt from emissions testing, I suppose there's no reason
you can't remove the air pump and it's associated plumbing. You can
probably remove the cat too, and thereby reduce any engine compartment
fire hazard. BTW - if your air-pump is not working (mine was missing)
then the injection ports are probably clogged with carbon. The air rail
is probably clogged too. You can remove all that and plug the holes in
the head with fine thread bolts.
All of my smog equipment is currently intact since I live in NJ, where
they actually looked under the hood (bonnet) for my emissions components
during the vehicle inspection. Although I think I probably could have
pointed to almost anything and told them it was the catalytic
converter.
In any case, I'm interested to hear the rest of the list's opinion on
this subject.
Donny v
78 MGB
>>> "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb@nni.com> 6/9/2004 1:02:13 PM >>>
Gang,
I have been driving my 80 B for a while now with a
frozen air pump. The pump drive belt was removed a while
ago by the PO when it froze. The question is, should I just
go ahead and buy a replacement air pump/belt and install
it, or should I go through the process to desmog ?
If I do desmog, what results can I expect ? Note my car
is exempt from "tail pipe sniffing", and has passed
emissions with the frozen pump in the past anyway...
Thanks,
Gene 80 'B
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