mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: body work

To: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: body work
From: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 08:57:04 -0400
Thanks Bud,

I will check it out.

Don

Bud Krueger wrote:
> Don,
> 
>     A year or so ago I started a similar thread about  adhesives, here's 
> a copy of the text from my last response:
> 
>> Thanks to all of you who the responded to my question about adhesives 
>> vs. welding.
>> It appears that there are at least two substantial products intended 
>> for this
>> purpose, 3M5200 and a line known as Fusor (www.fusor.com).  The 
>> combined knowledge
>> of this list still amazes me.
>>
> I'd suggest checking these out.
> Bud Krueger
> 52TD
> 
> Don Malling wrote:
> 
>> Hi Blair,
>>
>> Did you do the entire sill thing -- inner, middle and outer sills -- 
>> or just the outers?
>>
>> If everything, I have a question, maybe a question for anyone who has 
>> done it.
>>
>> When I remove the old sills, I plan to support the body under the seat 
>> and floor area with wood and jack stands to distribute the load. Then 
>> weld in the new sills after getting everything lined up with the doors.
>> The question is: when I lower the car back onto its wheels, is there 
>> any sag in the sills due to the load of the car. That is, when I line 
>> up the sills the doors and everything is jacked up and supported, can 
>> I assume  it will be exactly the same when I remove the support or do 
>> I have to build in some "sag", and if so about how much?
>>
>> I guess I heard many new car fenders are glued on rather than welded. 
>> Seems like lots of joints a unibody could be considered structural -- 
>> like the sills. I assume there must be places where you can't use this 
>> stuff in place of welding. Any other keywords or names for SEM so I 
>> can find more info on it.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Don Malling
>>
>>
>>
>> Blair J. Weiss wrote:
>>
>>> David Wrote :
>>>
>>>
>>>> Blair J. Weiss SEZ -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Bondo goes over bare metal, seam sealer goes over primer.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The fellow doing the body work on my MGA tells me emphatically
>>>> that you always apply body filler (don't know if it's Bondo
>>>> brand he's using) over primer, then apply more primer over the
>>>> filler.  This is to prevent moisture from getting between the
>>>> filler and the metal (since the filler is hygroscopic), causing
>>>> rust and separation of the filler from the metal.  This
>>>> condition usually shows itself as little "pimples" under the
>>>> paint which, if impacted, will cause a chunk of the filler
>>>> underneath to break free from the body and leave a big hole in
>>>> the paint.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Probably should be looking for a new body guy by now? The "Evercoat
>>> Everglass waterproof short
>>> strand fiberglass reinforced filler" aka Tiger Hair goes onto bare 
>>> metal. If
>>> you were to put it over primer, you would be depending upon the adhesive
>>> strength on the primer to the metal to keep the filler on the car.
>>>
>>> On top of the tiger hair, the next coat of "Bondo" should be a fine 
>>> light
>>> weight variety.
>>>
>>> Seam sealer doesn't go on exterior panels, it is a rubbery compound for
>>> covering over joints, like welds, or better panel adhesive. For what 
>>> it's
>>> worth, I just finished a B and ended up using SEM adhesive to "glue"  
>>> the
>>> floor pans in. I was a little skeptical about it, so I welded the 
>>> rockers...
>>>
>>> The stuff is amazing. Hit the metal with a 36 grit grinder, and lay a 
>>> 1/4"
>>> bead around the lip where the floor sits. Take a "bondo" spreader and 
>>> smooth
>>> it down, lay your panels into place, and sink about 12 tek screws 
>>> into each
>>> floor... total time about 5 hours... oh and you still need to put seam
>>> sealer over the panel adhesive.
>>>
>>> Blair
>>
>>
>>
>> /

///  or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>