Hi Blair,
Did you do the entire sill thing -- inner, middle and outer sills -- or
just the outers?
If everything, I have a question, maybe a question for anyone who has
done it.
When I remove the old sills, I plan to support the body under the seat
and floor area with wood and jack stands to distribute the load. Then
weld in the new sills after getting everything lined up with the doors.
The question is: when I lower the car back onto its wheels, is there any
sag in the sills due to the load of the car. That is, when I line up the
sills the doors and everything is jacked up and supported, can I assume
it will be exactly the same when I remove the support or do I have to
build in some "sag", and if so about how much?
I guess I heard many new car fenders are glued on rather than welded.
Seems like lots of joints a unibody could be considered structural --
like the sills. I assume there must be places where you can't use this
stuff in place of welding. Any other keywords or names for SEM so I can
find more info on it.
Thanks
Don Malling
Blair J. Weiss wrote:
> David Wrote :
>
>
>>Blair J. Weiss SEZ -
>>
>>
>>>Bondo goes over bare metal, seam sealer goes over primer.
>>
>>The fellow doing the body work on my MGA tells me emphatically
>>that you always apply body filler (don't know if it's Bondo
>>brand he's using) over primer, then apply more primer over the
>>filler. This is to prevent moisture from getting between the
>>filler and the metal (since the filler is hygroscopic), causing
>>rust and separation of the filler from the metal. This
>>condition usually shows itself as little "pimples" under the
>>paint which, if impacted, will cause a chunk of the filler
>>underneath to break free from the body and leave a big hole in
>>the paint.
>>
>
>
> Probably should be looking for a new body guy by now? The "Evercoat
> Everglass waterproof short
> strand fiberglass reinforced filler" aka Tiger Hair goes onto bare metal. If
> you were to put it over primer, you would be depending upon the adhesive
> strength on the primer to the metal to keep the filler on the car.
>
> On top of the tiger hair, the next coat of "Bondo" should be a fine light
> weight variety.
>
> Seam sealer doesn't go on exterior panels, it is a rubbery compound for
> covering over joints, like welds, or better panel adhesive. For what it's
> worth, I just finished a B and ended up using SEM adhesive to "glue" the
> floor pans in. I was a little skeptical about it, so I welded the rockers...
>
> The stuff is amazing. Hit the metal with a 36 grit grinder, and lay a 1/4"
> bead around the lip where the floor sits. Take a "bondo" spreader and smooth
> it down, lay your panels into place, and sink about 12 tek screws into each
> floor... total time about 5 hours... oh and you still need to put seam
> sealer over the panel adhesive.
>
> Blair
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