This may not be necessary, and with the way UK temps fluctuate (it is
possible to get
warmer temps in December than June) altering the valve with the seasons is
not really an option. I agree that the travel of the control is not
enough to get full travel at the valve but on both of mine it is not
required as full heat is being given before the valve is fully open. I had
occasion to change one of my valves recently and dismantled it out of
interest. I found that it differed to the diagrams Bob Munch has on his
site (http://members.aol.com/bobmunch/HTRVlsHT.htm)
in that mine did not have the circlip on the end of the pin retaining
the valve cup. Also the pin on mine is tapered, which I believe seems to
act as a fine
control of water flow through the middle of the valve cup in the closing
half of travel when the valve cup is on
its seat. This means that when the valve is more than half open as well as
the valve cup being off its seat and water flowing past its outer edge, the
pin has the narrowest part of its taper adjacent to the centre of the valve
cup allowing water to flow through
here as well. With the circlip Bob found on his, this inner path is blocked
so reducing flow. Bob's mod adds washers to the pin, so the valve cup is
lifted off its seat further and sooner, which also means that full heat is
obtained at less than full travel of the valve lever. My new OE valve
appeared to be the same construction as my old one as far as I could judge
by peering up the inlet, why Bob's and mine should differ in this way I have
no idea, but he does say his is a repro part. I checked my heater temp with
the OE valve and found it very close to the 150F that Bob measured with his
modded repro valve.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles & Peggy Robinson" <ccrobins@ktc.com>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
Cc: "Telewest (PH)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; "Larry Colen"
<lrcar@red4est.com>; "mglist" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Heater cables, shipfitters disease
> OK, now I see what your problem is. I noticed it, too. What it boils
> down to is that there's more travel in the control mechanism in than
> there is at the valve. So, here's my fix, er, not a fix, just a
> work-around. I adjust the cable in the summer to close the valve
> completely. In the winter I adjust it to open the valve completely and
> never try to close it completely. It takes only a few minutes and is
> accomplished by moving the housing in the clamp.
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