At 08:58 PM 6/9/02 -0500, Chuck Renner wrote:
>.... the pipe that connects from the back of the block to the filter
>assembly. I can't get the fitting on the pipe to turn loose from the
>adapter that screws into the block. I removed the whole thing as one unit,
That must have been a nice trick. I thought the pipe would hit the top
edge of the engine block. Lucky you.
>thinking if I could get it in a vise, I'd be able to break it free. Still
>no luck. Any advice?
Bigger wrench. The steel adapter fitting has a 1-1/8" wrench hex. The big
brass nut is a little wierd, I measure axactly 1.100" so it must be
28mm. I have no idea where you would find a 28mm flare nut wrench, but
that would be the recommended tool if it's really that tight. I have
always used a nice meaty 12 inch adjustable wrench on this nut with no
problem. Given enough torque, a brass nut should come loose from a steel
thread without damage.
>I'll certainly apply heat from a torch if that's what it takes..... just
>always a bit leery of taking a torch to parts like this that appear to be
>brazed....
You're right about the brazing. The fittings on both ends of the pipe are
brass, as well as the large nut that you're working on. The adapter
fitting is a steel part, so you can clamp that tightly in the vice if you
like. You shouldn't need to heat it. But if you do, take it easy with the
torch, because the brass will melt before it glows. A little head goes a
long ways for expanding a thin brass nut. Just heat the nut, not the
threaded fitting.
Oh, just to be sure. Do remember that it's a right handed thread, and turn
anti-clockwise to undo.
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
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