If the clutch was working fine before and has started engaging closer to the
floor relatively recently you have to ask yourself why. And the answer
probably will be that some seal or hose is leaking, so bleeding on its own
is unlikely to be enough to effect a permanent cure.
If you find the MC is bad you would do well to deal with the slave at the
same time unless you know it has recently been replaced or overhauled. When
dealing with the slave always replace the flex hose ditto.
Q1. When you do find and fix the problem you probably will have to refill
the system, and bleeding the book way is a bleeding nuisance, apparently. I
opted to fill a completely empty system from the slave nipple using a
Gunsons Eezi-Bleed on very low pressure, watching the MC until I could see
the fluid, then stopping and topping off in the usual way. Found I had full
travel (1/2" at the slave piston) immediately i.e. no bleeding required.
Q2. Yes.
Q3. Yes. From what others have said they seem to be supplied that way
round, possibly something to do with being able to get it in a smaller box
and saving a fraction of a groat.
Q4. Pump it out of the slave nipple with the pedal and be surprised at the
colour of the fluid.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DenverD" <DenverD@Texan.dk>
To: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Cc: <Lasse@LassePedersen.com>
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 7:35 PM
Subject: bleeding the clutch
> 65 B tourer, w/overdrive
>
> noticed the clutch was beginning to engage by the time the pedal had risen
only
> about half an inch above full down..
>
> my mechanic friend said we should bleed the system (made lots of sense)..
>
> i read what is said in Bently and Hayes and told my friend--who said none
of that
> was needed, to just do it like you bleed brakes (also made sense to me)..
>
> which we tried and afterwards the clutch is worse--now fully engaged even
with
> the pedal full to the floor (surprise--no nothing makes sense)..
>
> so, we tried it the book way but it got no better (add frustration to
surprise)..
>
> and had to quit--out of time and patience..
>
> he was at the pedal pushing end and i was at the other--one thing i
noticed was
> that at NO time did any air come out of the system (i say that meaning
that at no
> time did it "spit" as one expects while bleeding **brakes**)..
>
> i just couldn't figure that out, but now while reading through Bently
again i notice
> the illustration (Fig. E.2) along side section E.5 (page 146 in my book)
and notice
> the hydraulic line (from the master cylinder) goes into the bottom hole on
the
> slave, and the bleeding nipple is in the top hole---ho ho, they are
*reversed* on
> mine (DPO) and i think that why the air AT THE TOP of the slave cylinder
isn't
> being pushed out..
>
> i intend to swap the nipple and line in the morning; and then follow the
tube in a
> jar and steady pumping until all bubbles cease routine explained in both
books..
>
> QUESTION 1: anyone know any reason why that won't work?
>
> QUESTION 2: the nipple *should* be on top, right?
>
> QUESTION 3: is swapping a simple process--that is, are they the same size
> threaded holes (or did the DPO do something REALLY stupid)??
>
> QUESTION 4: i plan to just go ahead and drain all the fluid out of the
system and
> replace with new--any reason *not* to do that?
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