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bleeding the clutch

To: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: bleeding the clutch
From: "DenverD" <DenverD@Texan.dk>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 20:35:01 +0200
Hello memorial weekend folks,

65 B tourer, w/overdrive

noticed the clutch was beginning to engage by the time the pedal had risen only 
about half an inch above full down..

my mechanic friend said we should bleed the system (made lots of sense)..

i read what is said in Bently and Hayes and told my friend--who said none of 
that 
was needed, to just do it like you bleed brakes (also made sense to me)..

which we tried and afterwards the clutch is worse--now fully engaged even with 
the pedal full to the floor (surprise--no nothing makes sense)..

so, we tried it the book way but it got no better (add frustration to 
surprise)..

and had to quit--out of time and patience..

he was at the pedal pushing end and i was at the other--one thing i noticed was 
that at NO time did any air come out of the system (i say that meaning that at 
no 
time did it "spit" as one expects while bleeding **brakes**)..

i just couldn't figure that out, but now while reading through Bently again i 
notice 
the illustration (Fig. E.2) along side section E.5 (page 146 in my book) and 
notice 
the hydraulic line (from the master cylinder) goes into the bottom hole on the 
slave, and the bleeding nipple is in the top hole---ho ho, they are *reversed* 
on 
mine (DPO) and i think that why the air AT THE TOP of the slave cylinder isn't 
being pushed out..

i intend to swap the nipple and line in the morning; and then follow the tube 
in a 
jar and steady pumping until all bubbles cease routine explained in both books..

QUESTION 1: anyone know any reason why that won't work?

QUESTION 2: the nipple *should* be on top, right?

QUESTION 3: is swapping a simple process--that is, are they the same size 
threaded holes (or did the DPO do something REALLY stupid)??

QUESTION 4: i plan to just go ahead and drain all the fluid out of the system 
and 
replace with new--any reason *not* to do that?

eat a greasy BBQ rib for me,
(and, to those who answered my door lock question: thanks, but i've not 
returned 
to that problem yet--when i do, i'll report back..)

DenverD - A Texan in Denmark
65B # GHN3L/33680; later engine  # 18V581-H193

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