I agree if you want to check to see if the timing mark is close to
correct within
in a few degrees. The method for finding TDC I've always used was with
a stop
plate bolted over the top of the piston and a degree wheel. I have a
metal plate
that uses the stud holes to bolt over the cylinder. The plate has a 1/4
28 hole
drilled and tapped over the middle of the piston with a short bolt. You
rotate
the crank till the piston stops against the bolt. Note where on the
degree wheel
it stops. Rotate it around in the opposite direction till the piston
stops again
against the bolt. Note the degree wheel. Absolute TDC is half the
difference
between the two. I too have been fussing with these cars for over 25
years and
have rebuilt more than a few engines. From my experience, degreeing a
cam makes
the difference between an engine that runs good and one that runs
absolutely
great. I've always had the engines balanced also which I believe makes
a big
difference. I suspect the gears the factory used where better then the
ones the
suppliers sell today. I had a set of new gears be 12 degrees off!
Dennis Cox
67 MGB
>
>
> I don't want to be an old ......."stick-in-the-hole," but come on!
All
> this guy wanted to do was check to see if his timing mark lines up
with
> tdc. I know a stick in the sparkplug hole is not scientifically
> accurate, but like most things, it'll do in a pinch, and in fact, will
> tell him what he needs to know. Brain surgery this aint.
>
> Sorry to be a crumudgeon, but after fiddlin and fussin with these cars
> for 25 years, I know what works and what doesen't. Sure, you can even
> get offset keys to get your cam timing absolutely spot-on. Or one of
> those Vernier adjustable cam sprokets, But you must remember the
factory
> didn't do it for production cars and they still worked quite well,
thank
> you very much.
>
> Brian
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