A figure I noted down some time ago was 2.440" for a good spline - close
enough to 2.45" I guess.
IMHO if there were no play between hub and wheel with the knock-off removed
you wouldn't be able to get the wheel off or on. There has to be some
clearance, and with manufacturing tolerances whilst some combinations may
have negligible play some are bound to have detectable play even when
brand-new. It is this essential play that allows a new wheel to move on a
new hub by a tiny amount when changing from accelerating to braking, which
impacts the sides of the splines, that slowly hammers them thinner and to a
sharp point instead of flat-topped as when new, and gradually becomes
audible.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: Badeker, Andy <ABadeker@tribune.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 6:18 PM
Subject: Splines
> Regarding wear on splines: I recall John Twist saying that a new splined
> hub, on an MGA anyway, will have a diameter of 2.45 inches and a scrap one
> will be 2.40, though I don't have those figures at hand. Another test:
With
> the knockoff removed, the brake set and the wheel off the ground but
mounted
> on the hub, there shouldn't be any appreciable play when you try to rotate
> the wheel on the hub
///
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