> 7/8". How could my springs
> >become 1/8" longer over time?
As springs compress, they elongate. When they sag,
they are essentially compressed all the time.
In trying to get it all to balance out, keep in mind,
the rear is easy to tweak for height using "lowering
blocks" and different length shackles (flame suit on).
Just don't get too carried away with either. Use solid
steel for blocks and heavier than original material
for shackles. You may even be able to keep the
original springs, which should be softer than new
ones, complying with Larry's wishes for a soft rear
suspension. The flatter the spring the more compliant,
which usually translates to softer. Cleaning and
lubricating helps too.
The drawbacks: As you alter the shackle length, you
rotate the axle, which changes the pinion angle
relative to the drive shaft. The front u-joint angle
does not change, so you end up with two different
angles. This is a technical no no, but in reality you
have to get pretty far off to have a problem,
especially with a short drive shaft. You get
vibrations at certain RPMs if it becomes a problem.
Chances are, the angles are not the same right now,
and you could get luck and make the angle better.
The drawbacks part 2: Lift/lowering blocks act as
levers. The increased leverage translates to more
spring wrap. If a block spits out (aluminum ones have
that tendency)the u-bolt suddenly gains a lot of slop
and the car wants to drive in circles. I don't
personally use blocks, but if I did, I would keep them
at less than 1", solid steel, and somehow ensure they
don't spit out (welded to something?).
Tip: get two sets of u-bolts and after the tweaking is
over, and everything is set up right, toss the first
set and put on the new ones. You are not supposed to
torque them twice. This is assuming you will be
putting it together and taking it apart several times.
Tip2: 2" of shackle length change = approximately 1"
of ride height change. This is not a science. A cross
brace between the shackles will ward off funky
oversteer caused by unstable long shackles. You're
pushing the envelope if you need the cross brace tho.
A double nutted bolt through a piece of steel tubing
works.
Tip3: have many jacks and jack stands and be sure not
to drop the car on yourself or others. No cement
blocks allowed. When suspension is disconnected, the
car wants to drop all the way to the ground (as if
there's enough room to survive under it anyway).
Unload the weight of the car from leaf
springs/shackles before removing the bolts (they pull
out easily when there's no load. Be safe, everyone.
Please.
Want to get really wild? try slipping in an extra main
spring off the old pack or taking out one of the over
load springs from the new pack. The beauty of leafs:
simplicity!
Cheers,
jon
=====
77 MGB "Christine" slowly but surely healing:
before: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1294999&a=9971270
after: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1294999&a=9971291
58 Willys CJ-3B http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Paulsen.html
:O I think my chad is pregnant! :O God Save the Queen! :O
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