On a 72 the stop-lamp switch is wired directly back to the fuse-block i.e.
it does not share any wiring with any other green circuit, therefore the bad
connection must be at the fuse-block or the white feed to it. Be aware that
there are rivetted connections between fuse holder and spade tags on the
back of the fuse block and these can corrode as well as the visible bits.
Also if the stop-light switch shares a spade connector with one of the other
greens it could be corrosion between wiring connector and fuse-block spade.
Put a test-lamp on various places while someone pumps the brakes (ignition
on), if the test-lamp goes out with the brakes on the problem is between you
and the battery.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ATWEDITOR@aol.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: Lucas gremlin
> Here's the thing. I'm driving along looking at good instrument readings.
> Then I either step on the brakes or use the turn signal. First, neither
> brake lights or turn signals function; Second, the three electric
instruments
> all go off-line for a bit of a nappy, sometimes to return, sometimes not.
> Before the Rocks meeting the car was doing this so I did an all-out
assault
> on grounds, and thought I had fixed it . Now The Dark Lord has returned,
and
> I'm stumped once again. Even added extra grounds, replaced all fuses,
cleaned
> fuse contacts, re-inserted light connections, etc. Is there a common link
> for the instruments and the lighting system somewhere?
>
> Jay Donoghue
> 72B (aka blinky)
> 72B-GT
> 66 Mustang
>
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