May I suggest that you simply remove the valve cover, and use those studs to
secure a short piece of strong chain. The hook on your engine lift will handily
hold the chain with very little chance of even a scratch to the engine.
Having done this a few times myself, I decided to fabricate a pair of
reinforced "L" brackets (approx. 4" x 4" x 3/16" thick)
C----||---- eyebolt (1/4" dia. x 1" eye) with lock washers and nuts on
both sides
||\
||\ \ weld or braze a reinforcing bar between adjacent sides
of bracket
|| \ \ /
|| \ \ drill hole large enough for head bolt
|| \ \ |
=========
If you position the eyebolt so that the open side of the loop faces down, it
makes a handy, and strong hook for the short lift chain. These brackets are
strong. James and I have used them for numerous engine transplants including
the ubiquitous Austin Healey 3000 BJ8 engine/transmission combination which
must weigh damn near 1000 lbs.
Have fun.
Jim
Florrie & Allen Bachelder wrote:
> >From: MGMagnette@aol.com
> >
> >On what part of the engine would I attach lifting gear?
> >
> >
> >John Elwood
>
> Are there not lifting hooks on the valve cover bolts? If not, perhaps
> remove the head, slip chain links over the head studs and place a few heavy
> washers over them to keep them from slipping past the stud nuts. Other
> possibilities if you leave the head on: a rear manifold stud and a
> thermostat housing stud - or the bolt in the front plate for the generator
> adjusting link.
>
> I favor removing the head, as well as starter & generator - anything to
> reduce weight and bulk - making it easier to manipulate.
>
> 2¢...
>
> Allen
>
> mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-m-gmg-mg-mg
>
> Allen Bachelder
> '73 B - "done"
> '76 B - daily driver
> '73 GT - awaiting front wings
> '65 B shell - awaiting paint
> '67 GT - awaiting everthing
> '57 ZB - parts car or resto-candidate? - awaiting decision
> '49 YT - in "progress"
>
> mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-mg-mg
|