john peloquin wrote:
>
> Dear Seat Replacers,
>
> I used the diaphragms and though they weren't easy, it's not too bad if
> you warmed them up first, then put in the hooks on one side, then put them
> in the opposite side with vise grips rather than your hands. Also,
> immobilizing the seat frame in a vise or benchmate helps a lot!
I used a defensive lineman from Oklahoma State University. Worked much
better than a vise...
>
> "Never ascribe to Malice that which can be explained by Ignorance."
> John J. Peloquin, Assistant Research Entomologist
> Entomology, University of California, Riverside, CA 92521
>
> On Sat, 6 Feb 1999 miker15@juno.com wrote:
>
> >
> > On Sat, 6 Feb 1999 02:20:54 -0500 "Mike Lishego" <mikesl@tartan.sapc.edu>
> > writes:
> > >Hello all,
> > > It's hard to believe that I'm going home to fix the seats in my
> > >MGB soon. Of course, I've got a few questions for the list...
> > >
> > > Which seat bottom diaphragm does the list recommend for a '74
> > >MGB - the rubber one-piece type or the earlier woven one?
> > >
> > Of the two the one piece rubber one gives better support in my opinion
> > but be prepared for some major gouges in your fingers! - theyre really
> > hard to fit even when you warm them up!
> > I have found that a better solution is to have a canvas diaphragm sewn to
> > the square frame - you need an industrial sewing machine to do it
> > properly but an uphoulsterer can run them off in a few minutes - last
> > ones i had cost twelve bucks - they are firm and less prone to
> > stretching(webbing) or rotting(rubber)
> >
> > mikr robson
> > 69 roadster
> > 70 BGT
> > 53 Riley
> >
> >
--
*Bill Schooler *Check the MGCC Wash DC Centre Web Page
*Woodbridge, VA *http://members.aol.com/mgccwdcc/
*schooler@erols.com
*53 TD
*60 MGA
*69 MGB/GT
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