Thank you Trevor. What you suggest makes sense. I hadn't thought to plug
the rod journals and your comment about the oil forcing the swarf out of the
main bearings is reassuring.
I plan to use WD40 as a honing lubricant and a long stiff brush with dish
detergent and water for cleanup. In view of the weather I probably can't
use a pressure washer to blast away the debris.
I had a reply from "the cargaru" (he didn't sign his message) and he gave
some good suggestions on changing the centre main bearing shells while I was
doing the rest. I will give that a go also.
Do you have any opinions on whether the straight type cylinder hone or the
bottle brush ball type hone is preferable?
Fred Pixley
Napanee, Ontario
-----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
To: Fred Pixley <fpixley@kingston.net>
Cc: mgs-digest list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 2:16 AM
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild
>Fred Pixley wrote:
>> My concern now is: how can I hone the cylinders and wash out the residue
>> without getting grit and debris onto the crankshaft and around the main
>> bearings?
>
> This is not a foolproof method, but realistically
>it should be enough.
>
> Before honing, stuff soaking-oily rags into the bores. The oil
>should catch and hold most of the swarf, pull the rags out
>from above and that will get most of it.
>
> As well, stuff oily q-tips into the oil holes in the rod
>bearing journals.
>
> After the work, use a air degreaser wand ($4) or a pressure
>washer with plan detergent. Spray as much as you can everywhere,
>this will degrease everything very completely.
>
> Because of the lack of grease the grit will not stick and
>will be easily washed away by the air or the water.
>
> Immediately after degreasing though, spray everything
>with WD-40. The "WD" stands for water displacement, it
>is perfect at this, it will dry the last bit of water and
>protect the steel right away, otherwise it will flash rust
>before your eyes.
>
> That should be it. I am assuming you have the pistons
>off but the crank installed, so the main bearings should
>be ok, the oil comes OUT of the bearings not in so
>that should push any grit into the sump. As long as you
>give the rod bearing journals a quick wipe with
>a clean cloth before installing, you should get about
>all the swarf you possibly can.
>
>> I was pleasantly surprised at how easily the engine was
>> dismantled and the pistons removed. It took about 3 hours so far.
>
> It goes well, probably because all the bolts are protected
>from the weather. I guess with any other car work you expect
>to have problems with seized bolts and rounded heads, but the
>engine usually goes well because it's quality hardware
>that lives in a happy oily world.
>
>--
>Trevor Boicey, P. Eng.
>Ottawa, Canada, tboicey@brit.ca
>ICQ #17432933 http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
>
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