Nick.............
Do I understand you correctly - you were putting 40 ft. lbs. of torque on a
rocker stud? No wonder the poor little thing broke!
Whatever you decide to fit by way of replacements, there's no need for
anywhere that amount of torque on a rocker stud! I've been building British
engines for years and the only things on a head that I torque are the head
nuts themselves. The rocker studs and manifold studs (which have lock
washers, by the way; a clue - if you see a lock washer, there's probably not
going to be a torque spec.) should just be tightened as you would any other
5/16th nut.
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Coleman <coleman@sd.aonix.com>
To: JustBrits@aol.com <JustBrits@aol.com>; Larry Hoy <larryhoy@mcione.com>;
Harlan Jillson <hjillson@argolink.net>; mgs@autox.team.net
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, September 27, 1998 4:25 PM
Subject: RE: Cylinder Head Install ..... Arggg
>Ed/Larry/Harlan,
>
>Thanks for the advise. I actually picked up an easy out this morning.
>Started to drill the tap hole into the stud. But, the metal was a very
hard
>and the bit wasn't going in. So, I've decided I'd better take it to a
>machine shop tomorrow just as you suggest. (Ed, it is the #1 rocker stud.)
>
>A friend is also lending me a stud puller. I was going to back out the
>head/rocker studs and install them as Harlan suggested.
>
>The friend (ex-professional racer) previously suggested that I buy a new
>complete set of hardened head/rocker studs and replace the old ones. He
>said the factory studs were a bit on the weak side. But, I'm not building
a
>race engine, so wasn't inclined to do that until the rocker stud broken
>(40lb torque). Is that something that I should do? Or, is the broken stud
>a bit of a flux?
>
>Thanks again for the advice,
>
>Nick
>73B
>
>
>
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