Nick,
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Tapping the rocker stud and
threading in a screw with lock tight to try and back the broken stud
out won't work I'm afraid.
What you're going to have to do is drill a hole into the stud, and go
in with a easyout. An easyout is to hardened steel tool that is tapered
and spiral cut with counter clockwise grooves. You stick the easyout
into the hole and screw it counter clockwise until it bits into the stud
and screws it out (hopefully). Be very careful not to over torque the
easyout, if you break it off things really become hard to fix.
Now then, one thing you probably did wrong is to try and torque
the studs into the head. What you need to do is make sure the stud
hole are completely clean, then put lock tight stud lock on the stud
threads and screw them into the holes until they just bottom out.
Don't put more that a couple of pounds of torque on them, all your
doing is putting extra stress on the block once the studs are bottomed
out. Remember these things will be under tension when the head is
torqued down. Same goes for the rocker pedestal studs.
Hope you get it out OK. As long as you have the head off anyway,
you might want a machine shop remove that broken stud if you're
not confident about it, they won't charge much to do it, and broken
off easyouts are a bi**h to get out.
Good Luck,
Harlan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Coleman <coleman@sd.aonix.com>
To: MG Mailing List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, September 26, 1998 9:17 PM
Subject: Cylinder Head Install ..... Arggg
>I got the Aluminum Cylinder Head in from Northwest Imports (came w/ valves
>installed for $695) and started installing it this weekend.
>
>Ran into problems when I tried to pull the old head. I couldn't get it off
>no matter what I tried (including turning the engine over). Turned out
>that, the number 1 stud (the one you begin to torque first when installing)
>must have been a little bent. I ended up having to notch the sides so I
>could get a firm enough grip w/ the Vise Grips to get it off. Then had to
>run around town (San Diego) trying to find a place that sold a replacement.
>Isn't carried in any of the Auto Parts store. Finally ended up at a local
>British Repair Shop (Windsor Motors -- great folks) who gave me used one.
>
>Also, the cast iron head was threaded for fine thread studs on the manifold
>and heater. The new aluminum head uses a coarse thread. So, off to the
>auto parts stores again. Found them at a Napa dealer (Windsor was closed
by
>this time).
>
>So, got the head back on and head studs tightened down. Started tightening
>the rocker studs, when one of them snapped down at the base, flush with the
>head. So, I had to take the head back off the car. I'll probably try
>drilling a hole into it and tapping it w/ a screw secured with locktite.
>But, given my luck, I'll have to find a machine shop to get it out.
Argggg.
>
>The SO has told me to quit being so grumpy and not to sweat the small
stuff.
>
>Nick
>73B
>
>Also, are the Rocker studs torqued to 25 or 50 lbs?
>
>
|