On Fri, 26 Dec 1997 14:23:41 -0500 "Don Toy" <dontoy@kiski.net> writes:
>Snip.....................
>A bench test confirmed my diagnosis. I remember some talk awhile back
about a Delco that some of
>you were using. Does anyone have a part number? ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The
Delco sounds more
>dependable and cost effective. Any answers?
>Don Toy
This information came from all the helpful people on this list (too many
to name, I'm a slow learner!), and my own personal experience when I
converted my 1969 MGB to a Delco alternator.
Your first step will be to locate the Delco alternator. These are
available "everywhere" for about $30.00, expect to pay about $15.00 more
if you don't have a core to turn in. Many places will accept a Lucas
alternator as a core but remember the Lucas core may be more valuable
($25.00?). The Delco alternator I used is a 63 amp internally regulated
alternator. It fits 1971 through 1985 GM products. The person at the
parts store may ask you what model the alternator fits, if this happens
just name a GM product ,,,, how about "Camero". It won't really matter
what model you name, I'm pretty sure GM made only one internally
regulated 63 amp alternator during that time period.
The mounting points on the Delco alternator are different than the Lucas
alternator, so you will need to mount the Delco alternator in what might
best be described as an upside down position. By doing this the small
mounting ear on the Delco can be mounted to the front side of the water
pump. This is a critical mounting point. It is very important to make
sure there is NO movement (front to back) at this point or you WILL break
the "ear" on the water pump. Here is the tricky part. The ear on the
GM alternator is threaded with metric threads, that means the bolt
supplied with the alternator is metric. These threads are very close to
our standard course threads. What I did was used a standard bolt and
screwed it into the metric threaded ear on the alternator, it doesn't
matter if you screw up the threads on the alternator because you will
never have to remove this bolt again. This bolt (which now is better
described as a stud) will now slide into the mounting ear on the water
pump.
Now you must fabricate a mounting bolt to connect this "stud" to. The
length of the bolt you use will be unique to your installation, but
remember it needs to be able to reach from the standard MG mounting
bracket to the backside of the water pump ear. I used a grade five bolt
(three "marks" on the head), I cut the head off of it and threaded it on
the end that had the head on it. Now I have a bolt without a head
threaded on both ends, and no threads in the center. Do not use "all
thread", it is not graded and I have not had good success with this. On
one end of this "bolt" you will install a standard nut, on the other end
you will install a "long" nut, I don't know what these are called but
they are about 1.5 inches long. You need to secure this long nut by
jamming a lock nut with it. Now you will slide the end with the standard
nut on it through the rear mounting bracket from the front side and screw
the "long" nut on the bolt that is attached to the alternator. Now
install another nut to the end of the "bolt" that extends through the
back side of the rear mounting bracket. When you have completed the
entire installation and have adjusted the belt tension it is important to
tighten this "bolt" correctly. You will need to snug the long nut
against the water pump ear, then adjust the nut that is on the front side
of the MG rear mounting bracket so you have the "proper" tension between
the water pump ear and the rear mounting bracket, then tighten the nut on
the back side of this bracket. This will make sure their is no movement
front to back on the water pump ear. If you are lucky enough to have a
cast iron pump rather than the aluminum one this procedure is probably
less critical.
I know this sounds very confusing, but in reality if you could see it, it
is quite simple.
The opposite side mounting ear (large one) is attached the adjuster arm.
The adjuster arm I used is a universal type; somewhat "J" shaped with two
holes at the top end of the "J" and a long curved slot at the other end.
This can be purchased at a local auto parts store; however JC Whitney
sells them also, I believe their number is 2159Y. If you check out one
of their catalogs you can see an illustration. You will need to cut 6"
off the top of the "J" and drill a new mounting hole, this hole needs to
be drilled as close to the "inside" of the curve as possible without
sacrificing the integrity of the arm. The arm is then attached to the
standard mounting point on the B.
On the back side of the alternator you can fabricate a bracket from 3/16"
by ¾" flat stock. Just make some minor bends, and drill two holes at
each end. One end is mounted to the standard alternator bracket on your
engine and the other to the standard mounting bolt on the back of the
Delco alternator. This bracket helps to eliminate vibration that can
contribute to breaking the ear on the water pump or the alternator.
Your B should have three wires plugged into the Lucas alternator; one
large brown, one brown with a yellow tracer, and one small brown. Cut
off the plug that is used for the Lucas (you might want to keep this plug
in case you ever want to "undo" the conversion). The large brown wire is
attached to the large lug on the back of the Delco alternator; you may
want to use an eyelet style crimp terminal on the end of this wire. Buy
the standard plug that plugs into the side of the Delco alternator (your
parts store will have one of these) and wire the remaining two wires to
it. The small brown wire with yellow tracer is attached to the #1 lug and
the small brown wire is attached to the #2 lug (you will see these
numbers on the back of the alternator).
This installation looks clean and proper (if you can call a Delco
alternator on a B proper!).
The cost for this conversion is approximately:
Alternator $30.00 (if you have a core to trade in)
Plug 2.00
Bracket 12.00
Steel strap 2.00
Total $46.00
This is kinda a "one size fits all" answer; so if any of this doesn't
make sense, or you have questions or additions to this message please
contact me. I will try to help you, and also revise this message so it
will be of more help to others in the future.
Good luck!
Revised 10/21/97
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