Wow, Larry that is a stroke of genius.
Larry Hoy (MGB.Roadster@juno.com)
Denver, CO USA
1969 MGB Roadster
1987 Jaguar XJ6 Vanden Plas
===============================
On Fri, 26 Sep 1997 20:55:27 EDT bugide@juno.com (Larry Dickstein)
writes:
>This whole process is made a lot easier if you drill 1/2" holes in the
>crossmember when it is out. These holes make it much easier to
>tighten the trans mounts- stick a 1/4" extension thru the holes and
>then place the socket on the extension and then tighten the mounts..
>Saves about an hour w/ an open end wrench.
>Larry Dickstein
>bugide@juno.com
>
>"If you're stupid, you'll have to pay for it"
>
>On Thu, 25 Sep 1997 23:33:10 -0400 (EDT) Joanne Hershfield/Jim Fink
><hershfld@email.unc.edu> writes:
>>This is a process I hve been asked to publish, it is late, I am tired
>
>>and
>>have to think upside down to regurgitate the process....
>>if you are in the midst of getting ready to actually do this, post me
>>directly and I will go into more detail.if I can ..or if I forget
>the
>>order or you find a better way, good, this task procedure varies
>based
>>on
>>circumstance and luck...
>>
>>Installing tranny mounts, and tranny rear back into MGB.. POST MKI
>>
>>Assuming tranny is now back in car, and crossmember is still out,
>>clean
>>crossmember, re-install mounts to crossmember, figure out forward
>>facing
>>direction by looking at notes or check another MGB..! disclaimers
>>apply..
>>
>>Jack up back of tranny, offer crossmember to body and loosely apply
>>one
>>pair of bolts from crossmember to body, one side only, no maybe both
>>sides, just keep her loose... lower tranny to near mount touching,
>>keep
>>things from being snug so you can wiggle the mounts...
>>
>>I use a drift, short stubby phillips might work, the drift is like a
>>punch but with a 1/4" or so stubby end, higher the car is jacked up
>>the
>>better.... use the drift to secure one tranny mount hole in lign with
>>tranny threads, work a nut into the other thread hole while probing
>>around
>>with the drift to change the mating angles..(hmmm) now go gently, the
>>threads are aluminum, don't round out the threads..., one one nut is
>>in, i
>>think i go to do the same on the other side, opposite nut... then
>>while
>>ligning up the free hole with the probe tighten down the nuts or
>lower
>>the
>>tranny to add more tension, a small 7/16" socket with univ. joint a
>>screwdriver handle driver will fit for the rear facing nuts I
>think...
>>not
>>sure, but I recall trying this while I could still pull the
>>crossmember to
>>the side to get at the nuts,,, while stuff still loose, perhaps after
>>two of the
>>nuts are in I disconnected the crossmeber from the body, or kept it
>>loose
>>the whole time and just held it up somehow...., hmm, I think the
>>initial
>>procedure was correct... bolt up lightly, get 1 pair of mount to
>>tranny
>>nuts started then unbolt crossmember from body to
>>twist the mounts out of the way to get at the forward pair easier....
>>or to help enable gettting a small socket on the nuts to tighten
>>faster
>>than a 1/8 turn of an open end...
>>sorry, have to be there, but I know these are tricks I have used to
>>get
>>this done in less than 30+ minutes.... damn, the shoulders and neck
>>and
>>arms are a hurtin just visualizin this again..
>>anyway, the probe and pressure from a started nut are the key and the
>
>>a
>>metal bar, 2x4 or something can help position the other holes..and or
>>move the crossmember out of the way to gain access with a small
>socket
>>to
>>tighten up...
>>. sorry I am using way too much bandwidth.
>>
>>.. GOOD LUCK....
>>Jim Fink
>>hershfld@email.unc.edu
>>
>>
>>
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