This is a process I hve been asked to publish, it is late, I am tired and
have to think upside down to regurgitate the process....
if you are in the midst of getting ready to actually do this, post me
directly and I will go into more detail.if I can ..or if I forget the
order or you find a better way, good, this task procedure varies based on
circumstance and luck...
Installing tranny mounts, and tranny rear back into MGB.. POST MKI
Assuming tranny is now back in car, and crossmember is still out, clean
crossmember, re-install mounts to crossmember, figure out forward facing
direction by looking at notes or check another MGB..! disclaimers apply..
Jack up back of tranny, offer crossmember to body and loosely apply one
pair of bolts from crossmember to body, one side only, no maybe both
sides, just keep her loose... lower tranny to near mount touching, keep
things from being snug so you can wiggle the mounts...
I use a drift, short stubby phillips might work, the drift is like a
punch but with a 1/4" or so stubby end, higher the car is jacked up the
better.... use the drift to secure one tranny mount hole in lign with
tranny threads, work a nut into the other thread hole while probing around
with the drift to change the mating angles..(hmmm) now go gently, the
threads are aluminum, don't round out the threads..., one one nut is in, i
think i go to do the same on the other side, opposite nut... then while
ligning up the free hole with the probe tighten down the nuts or lower the
tranny to add more tension, a small 7/16" socket with univ. joint a
screwdriver handle driver will fit for the rear facing nuts I think... not
sure, but I recall trying this while I could still pull the crossmember to
the side to get at the nuts,,, while stuff still loose, perhaps after
two of the
nuts are in I disconnected the crossmeber from the body, or kept it loose
the whole time and just held it up somehow...., hmm, I think the initial
procedure was correct... bolt up lightly, get 1 pair of mount to tranny
nuts started then unbolt crossmember from body to
twist the mounts out of the way to get at the forward pair easier....
or to help enable gettting a small socket on the nuts to tighten faster
than a 1/8 turn of an open end...
sorry, have to be there, but I know these are tricks I have used to get
this done in less than 30+ minutes.... damn, the shoulders and neck and
arms are a hurtin just visualizin this again..
anyway, the probe and pressure from a started nut are the key and the a
metal bar, 2x4 or something can help position the other holes..and or
move the crossmember out of the way to gain access with a small socket to
tighten up...
. sorry I am using way too much bandwidth.
.. GOOD LUCK....
Jim Fink
hershfld@email.unc.edu
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