>
>
>At 07:57 PM 8/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>Steve Tritle wrote:
>>>
>>How does one determine if a starter switch is bad? I turn on my lights
>>then pull the starter and lights do not dim. Is that an indication that
>>the starter switch and not the starter is bad?
>>Looking at a lost TD weekend.
>>Steve
>
>
>Steve,
>
>Having gone through a series of starter problems last spring allow me to
try to help.
>
>First off I'm assuming that the starter on your TD is the same as on a TC.
I believe they're the same unless you have a Mk II in which case all bets
are off.
>
>You should have a heavy lead (AWG 4 or similar) from the battery to the
starter terminal. The terminal is connected to an insulated post inside the
switch cover. The starter cable attaches to an arm which sticks out of the
switch tower. The way this arrangement works is that when you pull the
cable the arm moves a large copper disk in side the switch which shorts the
hot lead to the starter windings inside the switch.
>
>The FIRST starter problem I had was when one of the copper sections inside
the switch wore away to the point that the copper disk could no longer
travel far enough to make contact. I manufactured a new part from a piece
of copper buss bar and was away to the races again. The symptoms for this
problem were much as you describe.
>I'd first off check that your starter is properly grounded. Check your
motor ground strap. If in doubt use jumper cables to ground the block to
the battery/frame. If that checks out, next check that you've got power to
the starter terminal. If so I'd next look at the brushes, make sure they're
under spring tension by gently pulling on each of the brush shunts (leads).
If the brushes are too short to maintain constant spring tension against the
comm they may open circuit your starter. (hope for this one because brushes
are cheap and easy)
>
>Testing the starter/starter switch continuity through the brush holders
requires access to at least two brush holders and even then may locate a
problem but won't tell you whether it's in the field or the switch. To
(maybe) eliminate the switch you could hook your test lamp to a brush holder
and then ( after making sure everythings out of harms way) operating the
lever. If you see full voltage at the brushes it indicates that your switch
is okay. If you see full battery voltage at two of the four brushes it
shows that the field windings are healthy too. If you don't see any voltage
it may be because you're connected to a ground brush, move you're connection
to an adjacent brush holder. If you see full voltage at two holders, your
brushes are in good shape and the starter is properly grounded then your
armature has gone away and you'll have to replace it. ($$)
>
>If you get no voltage at the holder then either the field windings are open
or your switch is hooped. If you can access both the hot brushes and one
has substantially less voltage than the other when the switch is closed then
you've got an open field. To find out for sure you're going to have to open
the starter switch. I don't know about a TD but on a TC this is MUCH easier
if you take the starter off the car. Unfortunately there's not much more
you can check untill you get it out.
>
>Hope this helps and, since I've already had a couple wobbly-pops, I hope I
don't send you on any wild goose chases. If you've any questions let me
know, I'll be glad to help.
>
>BTW have you got a starting handle? I had to use mine for three events
last year including our over-nighter to Whistler. Got lots of attention
from bystanders when I cranked her over by hand and she fired right up.
LBC's are just TOO cool, eh?
>
>Cheers,
>
___ \______ Ross MacPherson
/ __ \ __ / /------|) Surrey, BC CANADA
/ (___)---------/ (___)
1947 MG-TC 3528 1966 MGB-GT
|