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I'm not really sure if this applies to the problem, but maybe it'll
help. You can decide. Anyway, if the poster who suggested a resistance
problem is right (and I have no idea how to check for it), I may be able
to help you with an easy solution.
I didn't have the same problem you have. My car ran, for a while. Then
the coil would get extremely hot and burn out. I went through three
coils before the tech advisor in my club told me the resistance wire was
shot (the Midget has a resistance wire, rather than a ballast resistor).
Anyway, supposedly there is no replacement wire available (at least
there wasn't at that time), but he advised me on what ballast resistor
to buy (I think it's for a Chrysler, originally) at the local auto parts
store, and how to splice it in. It's been in the car almost 4 years and
I haven't had a problem since.
Anyway, if it turns out that this is, in fact, your problem too, just
let me know and I can look for the part number on my ballast resistor
and tell you how to install it, or I can try to reach the guy and find
out if he remembers what kind it was. As a last resort, I could even
take it off and run it to the parts store and see if they can match it
up for me. It's not a "stock" repair, you'd lose points in
show-judging, and it may not be exactly the way it's "supposed" to be
fixed (so I don't want any complaints from the "purists"!), but it works
and got me back on the road.
If that turns out to be the problem, and you want the information, let
me know and I'll check it out.
P.S. I've uttered that "why? why?" myself a few times.
-NORY
Don't assume that because you have found one problem, you have found the
ONLY problem.
'74 Midget & '71 parts car
'94 Ford Ranger
'86 Ford Escort
'89 Ford Probe
'96 North American Shepherd
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Way/9101
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Message-ID: <33EC593B.BFA46A3A@ici.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 1997 07:49:18 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <bkrueger@ici.net>
Organization: Krueger Engineering
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To: "David E. Brown" <debrown@concentric.net>
CC: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Midget Runs, then dies....Continued
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Reply-To: Bud Krueger <bkrueger@ici.net>
David E. Brown wrote:
> Hello all,
> And thank you very much to everyone who sent suggestions! The problem
>
> is still unsolved, but definitely is electrical in nature. To
> reiterate:
>
> Turn Key, result: Car will *run* as long as starter is on, that is,
> key
> in the III position. Turn it back to the II or run position, car
> dies..
> I went through the ignition switch and wiring diagram, but without
> success. Fuel system appears to be working normally. The weather here
>
> has been sunny and 70's and the depression grows daily. Your further
> thoughts regarding this situation are urgently needed to ward off the
> dreaded and impending lbc "fits", where I revert to childhood, scream
> "why, why?" and (gently, so as not to hurt it) beat on the upolstery.
>
> yours,
> Dave
>
> 77 Midget 1500- Crane ignition (installed last year, and worked great)
Dave,
I'm probably late with this, but - your symptoms are the classic
case of an open ballast resistor (or associated wiring). I'm unfamiliar
with the wiring of Midgets, didn't even know that they used ballast
resistors. When the key is in the START position, the resistor is
bypassed (shorted out) for greater coil voltage. These symptoms were
very well known to owners of Chrysler products of a few years back.
Bud Krueger
52TD (simple-minded ignition)
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