Hi Bob Allen!!
On Tue, 8 Apr 1997, Robert Allen wrote:
> What I choose to do was use Loc-Tite 'red' to 'glue' everything back
There are a number of "grades" of Red Locktite, but it looks as if you
did good!!
> together. I cleaned up the crank snout, pulley, and the woodruf key
> grooves with lighter fluid, dried everything well, and then appplied the
> Loc-Tite. After about 15 minutes I slid the puley onto the crank.
You didn't really have to wait after the parts dried, Locktite is
anerobic, and will NOT set up in the presence of air.
> the nut coated with Loc-Tite 'blue'. It is difficult to get the motor to
Locktite blue not only works with the strenght of a lock washer, it also
prevents corrosion. It's relatively easy to remove as well.
> tightening up as much as possible with strength, I then gave the breaker
> bar a dozen hard taps with the hammer.
No, no, no!! You don't have any idea of the torque you're applying to
the fastener with this method. This particular fastener receives a lot
of stress.
> The 'red' Loc-Tite is used for parts that you really want to stay
> together. It should now be very difficult to remove the crank pulley. (I
> may regret this later on an engine rebuild.) I used 'blue' Loc-Tite on
If you got the parts de-greased well, and used one of the stronger
grades of red Locktite, you will destroy your puller before the Locktite
gives way. We use it at work on industrial machines, and it must be
removed with heat; the old "blue wrench".
Another alternative would have been to "dimple" the shaft (snout) with a
centre punch, and apply a coating of "Liquid Metal", then assemble and
wait for a full cure. Liquid Metal is pricey, at $20 per tube, but I
can attest to its' quality. Don't bother with the cheap stuff, stay
with Locktite. BTW, if you're in a hurry, they make a primer that cuts
down the cure time.
Best of luck, Kirk Cowen
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