A few comments...
On Mon, 8 Jul 1996, REICHLE, CHRISTOPHER wrote:
> I know this guy that used to race MGs and restores Jag E-types. I went to
> him for advice on fixing the rusted out rockers on my 80 B.
> He said that I should not use a mig welder on a British car because the
> British steel is mild and is not tensile like the mig weld.
> He said that all of the welds should be braised.
Nonsense. Sills need to be welded NOT brazed. A welded joint is
much stronger than a brazed joint- welding *melts* the panels together;
brazing melts a brass based filler material *onto* the panels.
> British cars are braised together and that since it's a unibody, mig welding
> would change the way the body naturally flexes. He also recommended buying
> new doors as opposed to changing the skins.
British cars are (were?) spot-welded- or in some obscure areas even
gas welded. Typically the only panels that were brazed were cosmetic
in nature or were not structural. I wouldnt want to ride in any of
his MGs or E-types that have brazed sills or tubes.
I agree that you should probably replace the doors with decent
used doors- the labor to skin them is probably more than the cost
of used doors anyway.
>
> "... That lacquer paint is the best f** base you could have for painting...
>
Ummm. Run, do not walk, away from this statement. If this surface
is the *best*, why does he think the *current* paint is bubbling off??
About the only thing worse would be to spray armor-all all over it.
>
> " he suggested laying towels soaked in gas on the enamel crap...
>
I'll let that statement speak for itself. Gas == Boom.
> My fear is that I'll end up with a lot of creative braising work
> under a slab of bondo which will fall off, after of course the new
> paint peals off the old lacquer.
Sound about right to me. You might want to consider finding another shop.
--Scott
Scott Hower --> howersl@ttown.apci.com
Air Products & Chemicals, Inc.
7201 Hamilton Blvd Trexlertown, PA
(610) 481-2646
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