In general, I avoid rubberized coatings. They are a real pain to remove
should you ever have to and, I've found, they can sometimes seperate from
the metal to form pockets that can collect moisture. Worse, when they do
so, it is real hard to tell until the damage is done.
I would paint the floorboards with rust-stop paint, then paint with a top
coat (aren't factory MGs painted body-color everywhere?), then lay down
sound-deadening matting (which you can find in rolls by looking through
Hemmings), then carpet. You can't really protect the metal from exposure
to moisture, so don't use rubber or plastic over it - a breatheable
material is best. With good air circulation and a good paint on the metal,
rust should be a minor problem. I think the floorboards rust on these
cars because the original paint was nothing more than primer and top coat.
If your floorboards aren't so rusty that you can clean them to bare steel,
you can apply a high zinc content paint. Zinc protects the steel from rust
and that kind of finish is very durable. But, from what I've always read,
it can't be top-coated - but some people dispute this, so you could try.
Glenn
>
> When I did my B floor I cured the rust as you propose to and then I
> used boiling hot roof tar. This gives a close approximate to the
> original material used and provided you apply hot and onto a clean dry
> surface adhesion is 100%. It also flows well - but its nasty stuff to
> handle.
>
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