Re: Cooling in relation to water speed

[James Jewell <m1garand@speakeasy.net>]

Carl,
   Links describing the problem or links describing the solution?  
Actually, no, for either case.  I discovered the problem in the new "how 
to power tune the rover V8" book.  The book describes the solution in 
clear enough terms, and with drawings that you can take to a machinist.  
In essence, you take out the old sleeve, bore some more aluminum out, 
but not all the way down the cylinder, because you are trying to leave a 
"shelf" of aluminum at the bottom that the new sleeve will rest on.  Or 
you can make a sleeve with a lip at the top, and create the shelf at the 
top of the deck.  Either way, you need a sleeve that is thick enough to 
become the structural element, not just the wearing surface.  In 
essence, you are turning it into a "wet" sleeve, like some of the 
aluminum honda engines, and I think like the Northstar.  While there 
will still be some aluminum around the new sleeve, it no longer serves 
any purpose.
   One clarification that I forgot to make:  The aluminum cracking 
doesn't necessarily lead to the water leak, it has to become loose 
enough that sleeve actually drops, which then allows water to seep up 
the side of the sleeve, into the CC.  Also, if the sleeve drops far 
enough, the crank could hit it.  So, back to my point:  You may have a 
crack without any problems.
JJJ

Carl Floyd wrote:

> > Now having said all that, the big-bore factory Rovers do crack, nearly 
> > every time the coolant gets above 190, because the factory was too cheap 
> > during the redesign to increase wall thickness between the sleeves and 
> > the water jacket.  It's not a structural problem, and can be fixed.  
> >    
> James,
>
> Do have any links? 
> Thanks,
>
> Carl Floyd
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